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Getting my kale to produce through winter ?

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  • #31
    I have three each of Red Ursa and Cavalo Nero planted out at the end of June. I hardly harvest off them until Feb / March as it won't grow much over winter and so if I pick the leaves now I'll have nothing when I want it. Re space, they're in a section of a bed about 4' in both directions in 2 rows of 3. That works well for me.

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    • #32
      Originally posted by Two_Sheds View Post
      My kale is planted 20" apart, seed sown May, seedlings go on the plot July. I'm now picking this much every weekend, and there're loads to come

      [ATTACH=CONFIG]51100[/ATTACH]
      Love how they are drying with the glasses
      I grow 70% for us and 30% for the snails, then the neighbours eats them

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      • #33
        Well here they are even smaller now. Look how the stems have tapered. Miniature palm trees anyone ? I just seem to have forces beyond my control working against me.
        Attached Files
        Last edited by Marb67; 29-01-2016, 04:21 PM.

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        • #34
          Kale through the winter

          From your photo I would say you sowed the kale far too late to make sizeable plants prior to winter. Either that or they lack sufficient food. Although many books advise sowing as late as July or August, it is better to sow in May and get kale plants as big as possible before autumn sets in.

          Any winter harvest is going to be of leaves already formed, as new leaves won't start sprouting until February or March, even if it is fairly mild.

          Curly kales I find less productive than the other leafy types (until the new spring growth really gets going) and the worst type is the 'dinosaur' or Cavalo Nero types, as it starts producing a central flowering shoot very early and then nothing much. (though the young leaves from the central 'rosette' can be gathered through winter.. tasty if tough)

          The best one by far this winter has been Sutherland kale for us (found seeds at Real Seeds) as this has begun very early to produce side shoots on the main stem which can be harvested early. They have also made huge plants which I hope will produce an abundance of 'spring greens' by March.

          I'd be interested to know if anyone has tried the 'leafy sprouts' now being marketed, as an alternative to kale for winter greens. As sprouts are the only brassica that really seems to go on growing through winter, they might be a better source of pick and come again greens in late winter. Of course, the taste is unlikely to be as good as the real kale flavour.
          Last edited by BertieFox; 30-01-2016, 08:25 AM.

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          • #35
            They do look a bit sad, don't they . When I grow kale I normally grow nero di tuscana, and it grows into a huge plant - I'd probably only put 2, or may 3 in a triangle shape, into a square metre or so. Then I leave them until the winter to pick, and just take a few leaves at a time - I don't graze them for salad earlier in the season. I wonder if there's a problem with the soil too? Nutrients getting washed away during heavy rain, or if it's too acid or alkaline (can't remember which type brassicas like! Oops!), or maybe not deep enough? It's a mystery isn't it...
            sigpicGardening in France rocks!

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            • #36
              Well the plants have had feed over the months and not overwatered. There are a lot of nutrients in that soil from my composter. The plants were also sown in March / April so again, why would they be this bad ? Again, it just seems when I do the right things I still get failure. This isn't fair because I take the trouble to adhere to these "rules" of growing. It's hard to believe I know but however early I sow seed, get the plant healthy, many times it gets smaller and smaller as the months go on.

              I will try that other variety you ,entioned thanks. This Kale was from a mixed seed packet.
              Last edited by Marb67; 30-01-2016, 11:15 AM.

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              • #37
                Marb, you need to space them well apart, at the moment your plants are much too close. You will get a better crop if you give them more room. Though they do look like you have picked some leaves from them?
                I only grow the nero variety, they are worth a shot but you must plant around 2ft apart.

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                • #38
                  Why won't kale grow properly?

                  Like all brassicas, kales are heavy feeders and need soil that is both on the alkaline side, so liming is necessary on acidic soil, and which has plenty of nitrogen. Garden compost alone may not be enough especially if you are not rotating crops regularly.

                  I would do a light liming before planting next year and give them a good boost of blood, fish and bone or some other organic fertiliser. As others have said brassica plants won't grow on close spacings unless they are getting plenty of nitrogen and water.

                  Why not carry out an experiment this year by growing one kale plant with a two feet spacing, a good handful of feed, and regular watering, and then plant another in your normal way? If there is still no difference, then it may indeed be something odd about your soil, or cabbage root flies attacking the roots and weakening the plants. Have you tried examining the roots on any plants you have pulled out?

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                  • #39
                    I plant mine 3 in a row to a 4ft wide bed, so my spacing is about the same as Marb's I guess. I feed with rotted stable manure, chicken manure pellets and plant out in July for winter cropping. I have about 16 plants...This year's been so mild that the plants haven't stopped growing and are now 4ft high.

                    They are in a very sunny bed though, so perhaps the amount of shade in your garden in winter could also be an issue?
                    http://mudandgluts.com - growing fruit and veg in suburbia

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                    • #40
                      Well in that case I rest my case as yours are pretty much the same planting except not getting smaller and smaller, thinner and thinner like mine.

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                      • #41
                        I grow Tuscan di nero....... I think thats what it is called, and that produces through the winter but slowly. I find it better for cooking too as the stalk is easily removed.
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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by Marb67 View Post
                          Well in that case I rest my case as yours are pretty much the same planting except not getting smaller and smaller, thinner and thinner like mine.
                          But if Sparrow is planting just 3 in a single row (not clear from the post), that's not necessarily the same as 3 in a row and several rows close together Marb... At least I don't 'think' it is... At least have a go at planting 2 feet apart and see how you get on? xx
                          sigpicGardening in France rocks!

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                          • #43
                            In the past I have had great success with purple sprouting broccoli close together. I used to get the leaves and the flowers for broccoli. It must be a poor batch or something.

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by kathyd View Post
                              But if Sparrow is planting just 3 in a single row (not clear from the post), that's not necessarily the same as 3 in a row and several rows close together Marb... At least I don't 'think' it is... At least have a go at planting 2 feet apart and see how you get on? xx
                              Mine are planted just less than a foot apart each way. On checking the photo diary, they are 4 to a short row in a bed 4ft wide. 16 plants in total.

                              They go in in July, harvest from September, out by end March for spuds to go in next.

                              This is them going in:



                              And this is them in September:

                              Attached Files
                              http://mudandgluts.com - growing fruit and veg in suburbia

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                              • #45
                                So can anyone explain why the stems are tapering and the plants are shrinking ?
                                Last edited by Marb67; 01-02-2016, 02:41 PM.

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