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  • #16
    Plott70 looking really nice .
    Last edited by Ms-T; 30-08-2021, 12:13 AM.

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    • #17
      So I think one of the onion squash might be ready. It certainly has that cork/brown stalk. What do you think Ameno? Also this is th crown Prince that came away from the stalk. Have never grown it before so am not sure what colour it is supposed to be - looks about the right colour based on pics from the internet but that is all I have to go on.
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      • #18
        Yeah, that onion squash is ripe (the plant looks on its way out, too).
        As for the Crown Prince, it looks ripe enough that it ought to ripen well enough off the plant.

        Also, if you want them to store well, you need to leave the fruit somewhere sunny for a week or so, turning them every couple of days so that all surfaces get some sun exposure. This hardens the skin and allows them to keep better.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Ms-T View Post
          Plott70 looking really nice .
          The telling off for growing things that are too big is another thing altogether.
          Near Worksop on heavy clay soil

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          • #20
            Originally posted by annie8 View Post
            On that note, do people remove any leaves to allow the sun to get to the fruit / allow the bees to better access the flowers for pollination?
            I remove leaves and chop off the end of the vines to let the squashes get bigger. Works for me.

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            • #21
              I find that the fruits stop setting once the first ones have set.
              The leaves on the long vines stay green and provide energy to support the fruits that have set.
              This was what happened with a variegated Turks turban from saved seed. The leaves closest to the fruits withered while the leaves on the long vine stayed fresh keeping the fruits fresh while they continued to ripen.
              Near Worksop on heavy clay soil

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Plot70 View Post
                I find that the fruits stop setting once the first ones have set.
                The leaves on the long vines stay green and provide energy to support the fruits that have set.
                This was what happened with a variegated Turks turban from saved seed. The leaves closest to the fruits withered while the leaves on the long vine stayed fresh keeping the fruits fresh while they continued to ripen.
                Indeed. As long as you have the space, it's best to allow the vines to keep growing.
                Pinching them out does not "redirect" energy into the fruit. In fact quite the opposite, it deprives the plants of leaves and reduces their photosynthetic capabilities, leading to both smaller and less sweet squashes.

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                • #23
                  Monty nipped out the tips of his squashes the other week, so I promptly went out and did the same!
                  Nestled somewhere in the Cambridgeshire Fens. Good soil, strong winds and 4 Giant Puffballs! https://www.growfruitandveg.co.uk/gr...lies/smile.gif
                  Always aim for the best result possible not the best possible result
                  https://www.growfruitandveg.co.uk/gr...ilies/wink.gif
                  Forever indebted to Potstubsdustbins https://www.growfruitandveg.co.uk/gr...lies/smile.gif

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                  • #24
                    I have found especially this year that squashes have been dropping leaves close to the fruits and holding onto leaves where fruits have not set.
                    That is telling me to leave the shoots on.
                    Near Worksop on heavy clay soil

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