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  • Leaf mould

    I get lots of leaves mainly sycamore falling into my garden and I try to make leaf mould from it. I had an old plastic barrel that I had used for compost so last year I just put all the leaves in that. I know sycamore can take more than a year to break down. Just looking at the consistency not sure I can use it yet but I need the space for all the new leaves and could really do with using it in the garden. It isnt slimy but still more like leaves than earth. It certainly hasn’t got to the stage where it looks like my compost Is it possible I could still use it even if it isn’t quite fully broken down yet?

  • #2
    You can use them fine as a mulch like that, but I wouldn't dig it in.
    Alternatively, you could just add them to the compost heap.

    To make them rot quicker, you may want to try chopping the leaves. Stick them all on the lawn and run the mower over them a couple times.

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    • #3
      Thanks. I did add some of it to the compost. I probably don’t have enough brown so good to do that even if in small amounts. Was keen to use it under my yew which I’m trying to grow into a hedge the weeds under there can be a pest.

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      • #4
        You need to make leaf mould with lots of air, it won't work in a plastic barrel, usual way is to make a box shape out of chicken wire and then fill it with leaves.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by burnie View Post
          You need to make leaf mould with lots of air, it won't work in a plastic barrel, usual way is to make a box shape out of chicken wire and then fill it with leaves.
          Plastic barrel works fine as long as you drill a few large-ish holes in it and shred the leaves first.
          Lack of air is caused mainly by the way whole leaves matt together, rather than the container not being ventilated enough. Shredded leaves won't matt nearly as easily. If anything, a container too open will only dry out too much and rot slower as a result.

          By shredding and packing in a sealed container with holes (like a barrel with holes, or even a plastic bag with hole), you can get leafmould in a year from tough, slower rotting leaves like oak, beech and sycamore, and by next April or May with faster rotting leaves like poplar, willow, hazel and cherry.

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          • #6
            I find I get leaf mould faster using old compost bags than I did in the wire cage. Mines mostly made up of birch and Apple leaves.
            Location....East Midlands.

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            • #7
              Think I need to tip out what I’ve got in the barrel and see what it’s like further down. Maybe can drill a few holes in the barrel for this years load.

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              • #8
                It was actually in decent shape. A bit claggy but broke it up a bit and spread it on the border and around my yew and acers. So many leaves have fallen now will wait for a drier day and get the lawnmower out to shred. them. Have asked my hubby to drill a few more holes in the barrel.
                Last edited by annie8; 24-10-2020, 10:52 AM.

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                • #9
                  I just push any amount of leaves under the soft fruit and leave the odd ones for the worms.
                  They are usually gone by spring.
                  Near Worksop on heavy clay soil

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