Time to admit defeat on potatoes?

[Andraste]

We gave another tom feed application last weekend but I couldn't prevent OH from getting his fork out yesterday. 'It's only been 2/3 weeks', I said, but he wasn't to be persuaded - although he did concede to my plea for him to leave 2 half decent looking plants at the top end which are the only showing from a trial of 9 Desiree rather than 1st/2nd earlies.

He unearthed about 25 edible spuds of about the size you would expect from earlies & a few rotten ones that may well have been the original seed.

Although I'm silently still annoyed as I think we may have got at least bigger if not a few more by being more patient, he did observe that below the initial 6 inches or so of decent soil consistency, there was pretty firm/clay-ey ground beneath which was much heavier than we've got on the rest of the plot - especially toward the bottom end. This would seem to validate Rary's instincts about what was going on down there so that was a really good call

We've also learnt that we need to trust our instincts more (it would have been better to wait a couple of weeks before planting & last year's 'potato fertiliser' at planting probably did help even though the weather was different) & that you can put tom feed on spuds

To improve this area for next year we'll be covering with cardboard, compost & chicken pellets then covering for the winter. If we can get our hands on some Dolomite then we'll add that too.

Thanks again for all of the advice

[rary]

Something that I have noticed Andraste, is that not very many people who are growing potatoes earth them up nowadays, as I grow on raised beds I plant the potatoes closer together, therfore less room for earthing up, also folk who do the no dig gardening don't seem to do this either, you may have heard that potatoes are good for opening up the soil, the reason for that was that the potatoes were planted in rows at the recommend distance apart, then as the potatoes grew the soil was pulled up around the shaws, which served three purposes, first it protected the potatoes from frost, second it protected the potatoes from sunlight which prevented them from going green and thirdly working the soil like that opened it up to the elements and helped break up clumps of soil, leeks are another veg that used to get earthed up, as this provided a longer white shank on the leek, and doing this also worked the soil more

[Andraste]

Thanks Rary - that's given me some really interesting insight

I'd describe us as 'minimal dig' rather than 'no dig'. No dig is an aspiration at this stage as there are still perennial weeds with roots that need a more vigorous approach. Also, OH does seem to like using the fork to turn stuff over & it's taking some persuasion that if we add compost on the top then the theory is that the worms should do the work. However, given the discovery of the 'heavy layer' in this bit of the plot I've had to conceded there's some merit to his side of the argument (& I do hate to be wrong - especially if it goes hand-in-hand with him being right lol).

I had heard that spuds are good for opening up the soil but hadn't really thought about the mechanics of it. I kind of assumed it was the nature of the spuds growing that did it & only really thought of the earthing up as a means to protect from frost/greening/keeping the weeds down/potentially increasing the harvest amount/size. Now you've explained about the act of dragging the soil about & the impact of the weather on the structure of it, it makes obvious sense!

We didn't really have enough growth to earth up this year & funnily enough were only saying earlier in the week that we planted the rows too close to have done it properly. Even when we had a good crop last year we didn't earth up properly as it was only done partially from soil between the rows - again too close together in retrospect which made it a difficult job so our method was more of a piling on of compost.

It sounds like it would be a good idea for us to try leaving more space between the rows next year so that we can earth up properly to get maximum benefit

[rary]

Andraste, I have looked into the no dig method, actually several years before C. D. started publishing and I have always believed that any clay soil or ground worked with a rotary cultivator needs to be double dug, this breaks up any pan below the soil, as well as adding humus to the soil, just in case you are unfamiliar with the term double digging is where you remove the first spit(removing a row of soil a spades depth down) I usually removed two top spits, in the books it tells you to take the soil to the far end of you plot where it can be added when you finish the digging I have never done that as it gave you extra work, you them cover the bare soil with garden compost or manure and dig this in you the turn the next layer of top soil on top of the worked soil, while digging it is advisable to remove any perennial weed roots, any annual weeds and grass (not couchgrass) can be turned down as this adds humus to the soil, as long as there are no potatoes nor potato skins most vegative waste can be used it does not need to be composted once digging is complete throw on the first amount of soil, digging the garden like this is best done at the end of the growing season when the garden dug in such a way can be left over winter for the soil to be broken down by the elements. Like your "better"half I liked digging as well
And with that I will go and hide

[Andraste]

Lol Rary There's no need to run & hide - when it comes to digging he definitely is the 'better' half whereas I'm designated for hoeing & raking (which he's rubbish at)

I agree that the 'double dig' whilst adding the compost will be the way to go - certainly with this part of the plot where there's no disputing that we have a 'pan' layer.

Although I see the logic in the 'no dig' method, I think the 'double dig' (with the addition of compost as you describe) will improve the soil for next year. I suspect 'no dig' would take two or maybe even three seasons to have a comparable effect, or would need more compost than we can produce for ourselves dumping on the surface. Given that OH's labour is free/easily incentivised with biscuits & buying compost is expensive..............

[rary]

Andraste, just a reminder that any vegative material doesn't need to be composted before putting it on the soil, I regularly put the kitchen waste onto my veg beds, as long as its uncooked and meat free, it puts the neutrants, which usually get lost on a compost heap, straight into the soil, just be aware that at some times in the year potato skins can start sprouting

[Andraste]

Thanks Rary - I've only ever thought of doing that in the context of a 'bean trench' but (as always) your tip makes good sense