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Espalier Apple & Pear - Notching didn't work

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  • Espalier Apple & Pear - Notching didn't work

    Hi there, I've tried notching to create my espalier arms. Some worked, some didn't. For example, the bottom tier, left hand side on the attached photo of the Conference Pear. I've attached the Red Windsor Apple photo too.

    My previous post on notching............
    http://www.growfruitandveg.co.uk/gra...ing_92522.html

    PEAR
    Click image for larger version

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    APPLE
    Click image for larger version

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    Does anyone know how I can make a new arm for the tiers that didn't work with Notching. I've heard about Grafting but haven't a clue.

    Kind Regards.......Rob
    Last edited by Dynamite; 09-08-2017, 10:07 PM. Reason: Wording added

  • #2
    Please tell me you're not trying to do it in what looks to be little more than a 12" pot? That's probably struggling to provide enough food / moisture for what's already there let alone growing anything new.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Lardman View Post
      Please tell me you're not trying to do it in what looks to be little more than a 12" pot? That's probably struggling to provide enough food / moisture for what's already there let alone growing anything new.
      The Apple, yes and if that's a point, what do you suggest? The Pear is in the ground.

      Regards........Rob

      Comment


      • #4
        I have experience both in the making of incisions to force the sprouting of the buds, as well as in the techniques of grafting for the production of new branches.
        But first of all you have to start talking about rootstocks.

        What varieties of rootstock have you in your apple and pear trees? .

        Growing an apple tree in such a small pot is a crime, even with an M-27 rootstock.

        Now we go with the incisions.
        It is a very effective agricultural practice to invigorate buds that are beginning to sprout, as the incision cuts the upward sap and favors the development of the future branch.
        This is not a 100% safe technique, since sometimes it works perfectly and others do not.
        The most recommended time to make the incisions, is at the late winter and beginning of spring when the buds begin to sprout.

        Sometimes, there is a dormant bud, but it does not want to sprout, and it is necessary to make the incisions to invigorate the buds and form branches in the fruit trees (the most problematic in this sense are apples and pears trees)

        I attach some photographs of my incisions in apple trees, so you can see how they are done (it is convenient to apply copper oxychloride to avoid infections in the cuts).


        Incision in apple tree

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        Incision in apple tree -2

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        Application of oxychloride and copper in the incisions

        Click image for larger version

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        Bud invigorated after incision

        Click image for larger version

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        As for the technique of grafting for the creation of new branches, the two most recommended techniques are :
        The grafting to Chip Budding, with refrigerated wood (from the end of the winter to the month of June), and the T-graft with green wood , which you can do all spring and all the summer.

        It is a nonsense to explain both grafting techniques since there is much information on both techniques on internet

        Best regards
        Jose

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Jose-Albacete View Post
          I have experience both in the making of incisions to force the sprouting of the buds, as well as in the techniques of grafting for the production of new branches.
          But first of all you have to start talking about rootstocks.

          What varieties of rootstock have you in your apple and pear trees? .

          Growing an apple tree in such a small pot is a crime, even with an M-27 rootstock.

          Now we go with the incisions.
          It is a very effective agricultural practice to invigorate buds that are beginning to sprout, as the incision cuts the upward sap and favors the development of the future branch.
          This is not a 100% safe technique, since sometimes it works perfectly and others do not.
          The most recommended time to make the incisions, is at the late winter and beginning of spring when the buds begin to sprout.

          Sometimes, there is a dormant bud, but it does not want to sprout, and it is necessary to make the incisions to invigorate the buds and form branches in the fruit trees (the most problematic in this sense are apples and pears trees)

          I attach some photographs of my incisions in apple trees, so you can see how they are done (it is convenient to apply copper oxychloride to avoid infections in the cuts).


          Incision in apple tree

          [ATTACH=CONFIG]75616[/ATTACH]

          Incision in apple tree -2

          [ATTACH=CONFIG]75617[/ATTACH]

          Application of oxychloride and copper in the incisions

          [ATTACH=CONFIG]75618[/ATTACH]

          Bud invigorated after incision

          [ATTACH=CONFIG]75619[/ATTACH]

          As for the technique of grafting for the creation of new branches, the two most recommended techniques are :
          The grafting to Chip Budding, with refrigerated wood (from the end of the winter to the month of June), and the T-graft with green wood , which you can do all spring and all the summer.

          It is a nonsense to explain both grafting techniques since there is much information on both techniques on internet

          Best regards
          Jose


          I've looked on the internet at t budding but can I do that with a growing tip taken from a good tier?

          Kind Regards .......Rob

          Comment


          • #6
            I've looked on the internet at t budding but can I do that with a growing tip taken from a good tier?
            You can - but all it will do for you even if it's successful is put a bud where you want it., chances are it still wont break.

            Leave things as they are for now and in late winter try notching again, either using the method show in the pictures or by cutting a deeper half moon notch like this video.

            Comment


            • #7
              Much appreciated Lardman.

              Comment

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