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  • #16
    Hi Leif. Personally, I wouldn't use 'the Devil's own.' Why poison the ground, if you then expect something to grow there!? Seriously, think about it - it does not 'disperse on contact with the soil' ... but that's a whole different soap-box for me to stand on!

    As others have said, if you want a lawn, you're going to have to put a bit of effort in. Now, if you're not bothered about the 'bowling green' look, and just want a serviceable green lawn, that makes it easier. Down here in North Essex we have clay. Thick heavy clay. The secret is drainage, and light. If your garden is in permanent shade - you may as well splash out on fake grass, or have a gravel garden. If you have light, then everything else is manageable.

    Give it a good dose of weed and feed, then rake out the dead moss and the thatch. Failing that bung it full of chickens, for a few weeks, and they'll do just that in no time, and they'll manure it in the process.

    With a sharp spade, cut a cross in the turf where you have a hump or a dip, then remove soil, or fill, as appropriate, and tamp the turf back down with the back of your spade.

    After that, you need to aerate the top layer with a fork or one of those spike things. My Dad has some 'strap-on' spikes, that he just walks around in, and that does the job. Then, you can top-dress with sharp sand and compost, that will feed the soil and level any minor uneven patches. A good sprinkle of grass seed as you go, and it will soon perk up. Grass loves growing in sand.

    Also, remember not to cut it too short, and always collect your mowings if your garden is prone to water-logging, that way the air will circulate better. Good luck!
    All the best - Glutton 4 Punishment
    Freelance shrub butcher and weed removal operative.

    Comment


    • #17
      Only thing I would add to G4's very detailed advice is that there isn't a quick fix. You are looking at improving it over several seasons but anything you do to improve it won't be wasted.
      You could always pay one of the specialist lawn maintenance companies but of course it comes at a cost. My F in law uses them and the lawn is much improved.

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by Leif View Post
        I am near Alton, Hants
        If you go to your profile, you can put your location in. Then it will show up in all your posts

        Originally posted by Leif View Post
        ... and rotovate in dead turf to get some organic matter in. Then each year with luck a layer of compost will help feed and improve it.
        It's traditional, and easier, to leave the grass cuttings on the lawn: they're full of nitrogen and feed the lawn. They need to be short clippings though, not great big lumps

        Originally posted by Leif View Post
        I'm not sure what green alternatives there are, apart from moss.
        well, there's this



        Clover, thyme, chamomile: Lia Leendertz considers lawn alternatives | Life and style | The Guardian

        moss ! Alternatives to Lawn Grasses for Low Maintenance



        At school, when I was turning the "grass" over to make veg beds, I found it wasn't grass at all: it was mostly yarrow. I never recognised it, because it never had the chance to flower: the gardener was mowing it really short, and everyone thought it was "lawn"
        All gardeners know better than other gardeners." -- Chinese Proverb.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by rustylady View Post
          Could you add your location to your profile please? Then it will show up on your posts and save us having to keep asking.

          Do you really need to use weedkiller, couldn't you just rotavate the whole lot as it is?
          I have edited my profile, I don't like to reveal location, but it is relevant on this site.

          I don't have the aversion of some to weedkiller, though I don't like repeated large doses, just once to clear as here. If I just rotovate, I will spread weeds. I could bury turf, as suggested above. My neighbour did that, he dug large areas of garden and buried turf, looks great, but he is retired and hence he has the time, although his arthritis does not help. It has the advantage that I can get on and do some now, without waiting for weedkiller to work. And I can use a rotovator, to save time. I am a little concerned that that it will shred deep roots of some persistent weeds and spread them.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Leif View Post
            If I just rotovate, I will spread weeds.
            Only those weeds that propagate from root division: bindweed, couch grass ...

            edit: you have couch grass
            Last edited by Two_Sheds; 08-04-2013, 07:39 PM.
            All gardeners know better than other gardeners." -- Chinese Proverb.

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by Two_Sheds View Post
              Only those weeds that propagate from root division: bindweed, couch grass ...

              edit: you have couch grass
              Yup. And a bit of field bindweed, though I removed most by hand.

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by Glutton4... View Post
                Hi Leif. Personally, I wouldn't use 'the Devil's own.' Why poison the ground, if you then expect something to grow there!? Seriously, think about it - it does not 'disperse on contact with the soil' ... but that's a whole different soap-box for me to stand on!

                As others have said, if you want a lawn, you're going to have to put a bit of effort in. Now, if you're not bothered about the 'bowling green' look, and just want a serviceable green lawn, that makes it easier. Down here in North Essex we have clay. Thick heavy clay. The secret is drainage, and light. If your garden is in permanent shade - you may as well splash out on fake grass, or have a gravel garden. If you have light, then everything else is manageable.

                Give it a good dose of weed and feed, then rake out the dead moss and the thatch. Failing that bung it full of chickens, for a few weeks, and they'll do just that in no time, and they'll manure it in the process.

                With a sharp spade, cut a cross in the turf where you have a hump or a dip, then remove soil, or fill, as appropriate, and tamp the turf back down with the back of your spade.

                After that, you need to aerate the top layer with a fork or one of those spike things. My Dad has some 'strap-on' spikes, that he just walks around in, and that does the job. Then, you can top-dress with sharp sand and compost, that will feed the soil and level any minor uneven patches. A good sprinkle of grass seed as you go, and it will soon perk up. Grass loves growing in sand.

                Also, remember not to cut it too short, and always collect your mowings if your garden is prone to water-logging, that way the air will circulate better. Good luck!
                I don't share your aversion to glyphosate, there is a lot of propaganda, on both sides, but let's not go there.

                I have done weed and feed, walked over it with studded boots, raked moss and thatch, and it is better than it was, but it is the couch grass that is the pain. It spread into beds - veggies, flowers and herbs - and after mowing, it grows fast, leaving large clumps. And the moss in the bottom half just dominates. Last year did not help, what with the deluge. I spent over a year decorating my house so I think I will try and get a half decent lawn.

                I wonder if couch grass can grow up through 6" of soil? My guess is that it can.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Personally, I leave couch grass in a lawn. But I draw the line there! I also leave most other small green plants, mainly, because they are green. I remove dock, daisy, plantain and dandelion.

                  Dunno why I bother - the Dog then trashes it...
                  All the best - Glutton 4 Punishment
                  Freelance shrub butcher and weed removal operative.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Hi Leif, if the couch grass is only a problem when it reaches the flower bed can you just put a bit of edging in as a barrier? You can pick it up fairly cheap and it should at least slow the spread.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      My local Lidl were selling rotivators last week for about 40ish quid.

                      Not sure if this info would be of use to you or what the products are like in terms of whether they have the required oompf. Might be worth a look if you have a branch nearby
                      Quanti canicula ille in fenestra ?

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Question caused by advice I have seen re couch grass on allotments...

                        If you cover couch grass with black plastic ground cover, will it die off?

                        If so, and you are not in a desperate hurry ie. can wait a few weeks, would it be possible for you to cover the lawn if you are trying to kill it off before restarting?
                        Quanti canicula ille in fenestra ?

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by Dotty Sarah View Post
                          Hi Leif, if the couch grass is only a problem when it reaches the flower bed can you just put a bit of edging in as a barrier? You can pick it up fairly cheap and it should at least slow the spread.
                          I do that, Dotty, except I don't bother with a barrier, just edge the lawn with one of the halfmoon thingies. Mow the couch, that's what I say

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Leif View Post
                            I wonder if couch grass can grow up through 6" of soil? My guess is that it can.
                            If you bury it in your compost heap, in the dark: it will keep on growing.

                            If you put it in a water butt with the lid off: it will keep on growing. (so put a lid on, block the light)

                            If you put it in black sacks with holes in: it keeps on growing. (so double-bag it)


                            Originally posted by out in the cold View Post
                            If you cover couch grass with black plastic ground cover, will it die off?
                            Yes, eventually, if the light is totally blocked. The best result I've had (and I've tried all kinds of covering material) is from fencing panels. After 6 months most of the weeds were completely gone, only a few strings of bindweed root remained, which were easy to fork out because the worms had been busy aerating and digging under the panel, making the soil loose & fluffy

                            But, that's been suggested: Leif wants a quicker option.
                            All gardeners know better than other gardeners." -- Chinese Proverb.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by out in the cold View Post
                              Question caused by advice I have seen re couch grass on allotments...

                              If you cover couch grass with black plastic ground cover, will it die off?

                              If so, and you are not in a desperate hurry ie. can wait a few weeks, would it be possible for you to cover the lawn if you are trying to kill it off before restarting?
                              My understanding is that the fabric would have to be left in place for a many months to kill couch grass. From what I have read the usual 4 weeks is not enough. I would like to be proved wrong.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by out in the cold View Post
                                Question caused by advice I have seen re couch grass on allotments...

                                If you cover couch grass with black plastic ground cover, will it die off?

                                If so, and you are not in a desperate hurry ie. can wait a few weeks, would it be possible for you to cover the lawn if you are trying to kill it off before restarting?
                                It won't die off but when you uncover it - it is weakened and can be dug out easier [also the soil is mister and easier to dig].

                                Comment

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