Pruning apple trees - dwarf and planted - Help!!!

I'll be interested in the replies to this too.

I'm no expert, but you should be pruning/shaping/thinning your normal trees in the 1st few years. I think you want to create a goblet effect that lets lots of light and air in.

I didn't think you were supposed to prune miniature trees, but yours looks quite bushy/crowded.

Let's just wait for someone that knows what they're talking about!

md0u80a2

The pot-grown apple is probably best pruned only in winter (Dec-Feb). Most pot-grown apples are on rootstock M27, which doesn't grow too strongly and often gives a few fruits the year after planting and sometimes in the year of planting.
There are a few strong varieties that are not much dwarfed by certain rootstocks (e.g. Blenheim Orange, Bramley, Howgate Wonder) and they may need some summer pruning.

Also, knowing the variety, the rootstock, your local soil quality and amounts of rainfall would help further in how best to manage the garden-planted tree.
The garden-planted one may or may not need pruning, depending on what shape and size you want it to grow.
Tell me what you want to achieve with it and I'll suggest how and when to prune.

Hi

I am in Manchester. The tree is on an east facing fence and gets sun from 10am till late.

I bought the tree before I was aware of such issues bare rooted from aldi, so not sure on stock.

I am keen for this tree to be kept small, even if not as productive.

Does that help?

Morris

It helps quite a bit.....

This will sound drastic and frightening, but you need to trust me on this one, if you want to calm it down and get it fruiting.....

During early-mid July each year (until it's growth has calmed down):

On all the strong-growing branches (i.e those that have grown more than about 6-8 inches), find the point at which this year's growth started. The join in the wood should be slightly knobbly and a different colour and texture.
Cut the stem to leave only about an inch or two of this year's growth. DO NOT CUT INTO LAST YEAR'S GROWTH OR DISEASES WILL GET IN. ONLY CUT INTO THIS YEARS GROWTH WHEN SUMMER PRUNING.
Do this to all the strong-growing stems.

When deciding the exact point to cut, consider that the bud immediately below the cut will - in future years - usually try to continue growing in the direction that the branch was originally heading. The second bud below the cut will grow out at an angle. It is possible that one or two lower buds will also grow out at an angle. As a result of the "shock" of such a hard prune, the tree will rush to reproduce (because it's a natural response of many things that thinks it will soon die), various buds below the topmost two buds will become fruiting spurs during the next year or two.
The fruit spurs will then channel a lot of the growth energy into fruit production instead.

By carefully choosing where to cut, you can get branches growing roughly where you want in future years. Angled branches tend to be more fruitful and less vigorous.
The pruning cuts should be done with a good, sharp set of clippers (to make neat cuts that won't get infected). You should make a sloping cut a few millimetres above your chosen "lead" bud - with the bud being at the point of the slope.

After you've finished this year's trim, the tree will be about half the size.
I would be surprised if it isn't fruiting decent amounts within a couple of years, if you follow the plan.

If the tree tries to re-grow the strong shoots that you cut off during July, cut those back in the same way, during late July or early August.

I've butchered your picture to show the maximum size that it'd be in a weeks time (as a guess - based on what I can see in the picture), if it was mine and I had your intentions.....