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| Hi everyone out there, I'm new to this growing lark and these forums as well so please bare with me.I obtained an allotment back end of last year, so I've done loads of digging but everything else is new to me. What I actually wanted to know was how high do I let my tomato plants get before I pinch the top of them out(I've read this is what I've got to do,the plants are Gardners Delight if that makes any difference) |
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| Hi Spudman - welcome to the vine! Don't know about your toms, I'm afraid - we only took on our plot in Nov, and have no greenhouse, and our tomatoes are about 3" tall....... Some clever grape'll be along and let you know though!
__________________ Hazel www.hazelandjanesallotment.blogspot.com update Sat 20/12/2008......End of year report - plot d (legumes)!..... |
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| So is a truss counted as a truss when the fruit are formed or when there are flowers?? We are growing some cherry varieties where we have a truss which is half fruit and half flower?? We are getting very confused with trusses removing things feeding etc so sorry if this is a really daft question |
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| It will all slowly sink into place with the toms! I found it all so confusing, and am still learning but definately have a better clue of what's going on from all these clever folk on here! Good luck on your plot. C |
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| Just to help confuse you further, a truss is a truss whether it is flowering or fruiting !! Some people pinch out the tips at 4, 5, 6 or 7 trusses, whereas others (myself included) don't bother pinching out at all. Also, I don't remove foliage below the lowest truss until it (the foliage, not the truss) starts to turn yellow and die back by itself As your plants grow, at the points between the main stem and the fruiting branches or trusses, you will notice smaller side shoots growing. These are what you need to pinch out - easiest done when they are about an inch or so long - any shorter and its not easy to get a clean break. These can be treated as cuttings and used to grow new plants too ! As regards feeding -a high potash feed such as a Tomorite or Maxicrop should be given every week - following the directions on the label - start to feed when trusses start to develop. And don't forget to water your plants daily - water at the base or better still sink a cut off bottle by the rootball and this then ensures the water gets to the roots and avoids splashing the foliage. Hope this helps, but don't be surprised if you get conflicting advice as everybody has their "tried and tested" way of growing toms. It's just a case of trial and error and see what works for you.
__________________ Rat British by birth Scottish by the Grace of God ![]() Blog updated Wednesday November 13th |
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| I usually take out the early ones that come in at the joints till I get lazy about it but I have to confess I have never heard of pinching back the growing tip...I'm a little old granny type gardener and old enough to Mother or GrandMother most of you and I've never heard that.... |
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| I pinch out the side shoots on the cordon type but only pinch the growing tip out when they reach the top of the greenhouse and can't go any further. Always seem to get a decent crop so must work OK.
__________________ Some of us live in the past, always talking about back then. Some of us live in the future, always planning what we are going to do. And, then there are those, who neither look behind or ahead, but just enjoy the moment of right now. Which one are you and is it how you want to be? |
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| "If in doubt do 'nowt!" A very old saying on a par with if it ain't bust don't fix it! If your plants are growing well, you keep them well watered and fed and you are happy with their progress and the space they are filling - leave them alone! If they are outgrowing their space, consider removing sideshoots to make the plant narrower. Also if you have abundant foliage but little in the way of flowers and/or fruit, consider removing the sideshoots. This should increase the sap flow and therefore vigour to the main stem and increase flower production. If you have a large supply of green tomatoes come September (ish) consider removing some leaves in order to let light onto the fruit. Sunlight with all its components will help to ripen the friut. Remember to pick all the fruit, ripe or not, before the first frosts. Tomatoes will ripen indoors on a windowsill or in layers in a box elsewhere (store so they do not touch and check every other day - all layers!) Alternatively green tomato chutney is very nice. |
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| Hi Spudman - I'm not going to answer your question cos I'm new and totally green about these things myself, just wanted to say hi! I'm trying toms for the first time and was totally confused until all the helpful advice on here slowly started to sink in. It remains to be seen whether I'll get a crop or not, but enjoyment is the key anyway! |
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| I agree in general with this advice, if you are growing small tomatoes. Bear in mind that it takes a very long time to ripen large tomatoes, especially the beefsteaks, and I would err on the side of caution with these. There is a risk that if you don't stop the plant and encourage ripening, blight may ruin the crop. It happened to me once - I lost all the fruit because I waited too long. Had I kept to a sensible number of fruits, I may have actually got to eat one |
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| Shall we add a little more to the confusion. Toms are growing straight up the cane,the trusses are forming on the stem, the side shoots are being removed and we are feeding and watering regulaly. When the days are hot, hose dwn the path to reduce temperature and increase humidity. 'Tap' the canes or give them a little shake to spread the pollen to aid fertilisation of the flowers. Shade the plants from really strong sunshine and keep water off the foliage to prevent the leaves from scortching. Keep the vents open on hot days but close everything down on cold nights like tonight. Tomatos do not like extreme changes in temperature. Never let the plants dry out, if you have you will be rewarded by the bottom of some tomatoes turning black. Never suddenly over water tomatoes or some may burst their skins! Whatevr you do, do it regulaly. If your out at work and dont have too much time use a plant feeder to feed and water your tomatoes. its easier than using a watering can and you tend not to cut corners. I have a superspray hose end sprayer filled with maxicrop and connected to my hose pipe. It dilutes as you feed or can apply just water. Because it cuts down the time and effort in this important process you tend not to cut corners. When it comes to the reward, hold the tom in your hand with your thumb on the 'knuckle' above the fruit and press upwards. if it snaps its ready, if it resists leave it abit. Nothing tastes like a fresh greenhouse tomato with that recognisable smell! |
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as everybody has their "tried and tested" way of growing toms. It's just a case of trial and error and see what works for you.
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