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Allotment Advice For serious vegetable growers

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Old 24-03-2006, 11:29 PM
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Default North/south or East /west

I've just got a 1/2 plot allotment which runs East/west which I plan to separate into humped beds. I have a large quantity of landscaping fabric to use for paths and plan to add boards costs and availability permiting.
my question is which is the best way to align the beds North/South or east/west?
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Old 24-03-2006, 11:35 PM
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If you run them North/South thet should get equal amounts of light on both sides FF. Sun rises in East & Sets in West. But I guess it depends on the size of the hump (if you'll pardon the phrase) If its fairl shallow I guess it won;t make a lot of difference.
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Old 25-03-2006, 10:46 AM
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North to South everytime but the best bet for you is to visit the plot at the start of the day, mid day and evening and it will tell you were the shadows fall and how to arrange your beds e.g. lettuce can cope with some shade but won't like full sun, unlike courgettes and pumpkins and tomatoes who need full sun.
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Old 25-03-2006, 12:00 PM
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You can always gro your lettuce inside the Tunnel or wigwam of your beans, nice & cool loads of Moisture & plenty of nitrogen from the bean roots
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Old 25-03-2006, 06:09 PM
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This works if the wigwam is large or else you can get a mildew build up and fungus.
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Old 25-03-2006, 06:15 PM
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Well I made up my first 2 beds running north/south, the ground was quite compacted so i forked it then built up the bed with good topsoil. Feelin quite pleased with myself as I thought it would be harder than it was.
My site is having a large fire tonight so there will be a batch of wood ash tommorow. The old fellas on the site reckon its best on potatoes and fruit, anyone have any thoughts on this?
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Old 25-03-2006, 06:28 PM
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Wood ash is great for fruit and garlic, potatoes I don't know (I know hops are good for potatoes and beans). If compacted, dig in plenty of manure, compost, grit if needed and worms. I use my wood ash on my trees and it really gives them a boost.
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Old 25-03-2006, 06:52 PM
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It's a good source of Potash FF althought the exact quantities can very of course. It's also good if you can weather it first (bit like soot) but thats not always possible. I wonder if you put it around the tubers if it wil stop slugs?
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Old 25-03-2006, 06:55 PM
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Grass supposedly does or shredded paper.
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Old 25-03-2006, 07:05 PM
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Thanks for the advice, fruit and veg growers seem to be the most helpful people I've ever met.
Theres a local micro brewery near me might see if they have any hop waste after all they probably throw it very few business seem to get the idea of recycling.
My girlfriend has a horse so i plan to make good use of all the free manure. Transport could be a problem though maybe if i have the windows down and the boot open I'll be able to stand the stench
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Old 25-03-2006, 07:08 PM
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Yes, spent hops are the best and they do end up throwing them, it is great compost material - I use my spent hops on the soil, great conditioner.
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Old 25-03-2006, 07:17 PM
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A lot of places have cottoned on to this now Adrew & they don't give it away anymore! one thing to think about, if they are ex brewery the smell mght attract Slugs, they may think you have a huge slug trap rather than the allotment

As for Horse muck, If you bag it up (get some of the strong Garden refuse bags) that should keep the smell in whilst you transport it, then you can stack it for a year like a muck heap. SHould be good stuff .
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Old 25-03-2006, 07:24 PM
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Alternatively, you could add it to the compost bin, It willhelp break down the other stuff in there & will be ready quicker.

If your Girlfriend uses Sawdust or Shavings, don't put this on the garden untill it has been stacked and has broken down. Being wood, it needs a lot of Nitrogen to break the cellulose down & it will take this from the soil giving you Nitrogen deficiency. This is best treated seperately. If you make a bin for this & then water it with Sulphate of Ammonia (1oz to the gallon I think it is) then cover this will start the process off. CHeck it from time to time, but be careful about putting your hand in the heap it get Hot & can burn you ! I know I've done it with shredded Branch prunings!

Once it has broken down, you can mix it in with the other compost & spread it on the ground.
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Old 25-03-2006, 07:34 PM
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Loads of great info gents thanks again. Just a couple more queries (feel free to ignore me if i begin to sound like an overly curious kid).
Andrew do you use the hops as a mulch or rot them down like leafmold?
Nick any thoughts on hotbeds would like to try to grow melons
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Old 25-03-2006, 08:02 PM
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Hot beds are great, The victorians were past Masters at using Hotbeds.

I don't know if you'd need one to grow melons mind. They like it Hot & humid a poly tunnel would be ideal. You only really need the hot bed to bring on plants early (forcing) or to use the heat to act as a propogator. I guess what you could do is make a bed up, & once the temerature has settled down , put a cold frame on it, so your seed & grow in situ. There might be too much moisture for a melon though they like a free draining soil & will rot off if they get water logged. Courgettes would enjoy it as they are Gross feeders and you should end up with loads.
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Old 25-03-2006, 08:03 PM
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Spent Hops can be used either way FF. If we get a hot summer, a good soaking followed by a mulch might be just the thing!
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Old 25-03-2006, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fruitfanatic
Loads of great info gents thanks again. Just a couple more queries (feel free to ignore me if i begin to sound like an overly curious kid).
Andrew do you use the hops as a mulch or rot them down like leafmold?
Nick any thoughts on hotbeds would like to try to grow melons
I use my hops after beer making or dried out, I just add them to the beds in Autumn and allow the worms to pull it down. After using for beer they have broken down already and are mushy. You can add them to your compost bin.
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Old 25-03-2006, 10:32 PM
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To make a hotbed, which should be started as soon as possible, fill either a pit with a drainage layer of rubble or a raised bed structure with fresh manure from horses bedded on wheat straw (wood-chips don’t work). Tread this down to 1ft deep and as it rots it will heat up. Check with a thermometer and when the temperature drops to 50C, pile on a 10cm layer of moist top soil. Cover this with cloches or a cold frame and wait until the temperature drops to 25C before sowing early salads, broad beans and herbs.

If you can’t get manure, put a bale of straw with the ends pointing up onto a polythene sheet in the greenhouse. Soak the bale with high nitrogen liquid feed such as lawn fertiliser. Doing this will trigger the rotting process, releasing both heat and carbon dioxide (the gas needed for photosynthesis) for the benefit of other plants in the greenhouse. Cover with soil and when it is as warm and cosy as an electric blanket, sow your seeds.
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Old 25-03-2006, 10:53 PM
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You can gro tomatoes i straw bales as well Andrew & the heat gets them going earlier.
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Old 25-03-2006, 10:55 PM
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How do you support them, this would be interesting to read more on.
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Old 25-03-2006, 11:17 PM
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Just like growing in the greenhose or garden border Andrew. The hardest part is cutting the hole to fit the pots in.

Bernard Salt - gardening under plastic

Not just Toms either

http://www.nicholsgardennursery.com/strawbales.htm

More info

http://www.pioneerthinking.com/kg_strawbale.html

and more...

http://msucares.com/pubs/infosheets/is1678.pdf#search='growing%20in%20straw%20bales'

had enough yet

http://www.motherearthnews.com/top_a...s_in_the_Straw
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Last edited by Lesley Jay; 31-03-2006 at 03:33 PM.
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Old 26-03-2006, 09:13 PM
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Thanks, much appreciated.

Further info on hotbeds:
http://www.gardenorganic.org.uk/todo...aqs.php?id=162
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Last edited by Lesley Jay; 31-03-2006 at 03:33 PM.
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Old 26-03-2006, 10:45 PM
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