Crop rotation

**zazen999** · 13-03-2010, 10:24 PM

That's not rotating, that's swapping!

**Jeanied** · 13-03-2010, 10:30 PM

Hi BK - my rotation is pots, legs, roots, brassicas
so this would translate, for you, into:-
1 - peas and beans
2 - roots (not pots though)
3 a and b - potatoes
5 - brassicas
Not sure why Zazen says your plan was swapping though!

**Alison** · 13-03-2010, 10:32 PM

Suppose rotation is really swapping it all round every year when you think about it..........

Last year my beds were as follows, with 3 (soon to be 4!) beds in each rotation:

1 - carrots, parsnips, beetroot, chard, leeks, onions, shallots and garlic
2 - cabbage, cauli, kale, PSB, calabrese, sprouts, turnips and swede
3 - peas, beans, sweetcorn, squashes etc
4 - spuds and a few outdoor tomatoes

This year, the spuds move to bed 1, carrots etc move to bed 2, the brassicas move to bed 3 etc. The way these are situation on the plot make it easy to remember as the families just move down one each year.

It's probably not perfect but does mean that the brassicas get the advantage of the high nitrogen content after the legumes have been in and as I do my main manure addition before the potoes go in I get a decent amount of time before the roots go in to avoid forking - that's the theory anyway.....

**zazen999** · 13-03-2010, 11:09 PM

Originally posted by Jeanied View Post

Not sure why Zazen says your plan was swapping though!

Because she has swapped 1 and 3 with each other, and 2 and 5 with each other. Rather than rotated...

**OllieMartin** · 13-03-2010, 11:09 PM

My understanding of the rotation system is that:

Potatoes like slightly acidic manure, as roots and brassicas don't like acid, follow with legumes.
Legumes leave nitrogen in the soil, so nitrogen loving-brassicas should follow them
Brassicas like alkaline soils, so should be a year away from acid-loving potatoes
Roots don't like acid so are best after the limed brassicas.

I'm sure there are other reasons, but that's the logic I apply. I know you can adjust the acid-alkaline balance in between growing seasons too.

**Bramble_killer** · 13-03-2010, 11:32 PM

Originally posted by zazen999 View Post

Because she has swapped 1 and 3 with each other, and 2 and 5 with each other. Rather than rotated...

And that's why I post on here asking for help. I got confused after reading what different people say.

just thought brassicas would go into the manured patch and the roots go where the legumes were as they would have a high nitrogen content.

thanks jeanied, will follow your plan

**zazen999** · 13-03-2010, 11:48 PM

Originally posted by Bramble_killer View Post

And that's why I post on here asking for help. I got confused after reading what different people say.

just thought brassicas would go into the manured patch and the roots go where the legumes were as they would have a high nitrogen content.

thanks jeanied, will follow your plan

I don't think it really matters; as long as you don't grow the same thing in any patch two years running.

Easiest way to do it is to draw a cross and put a different crop in each quarter. Then move each crop round clockwise each year. Label each quarter to match your beds. It might be easier if you call them 1, 2, 3 and 4 - or A, B, C and D if that helps.

**elsie-scot** · 14-03-2010, 08:42 AM

I have read quite a few different rotation plans, what should follow what and why.

One persons reasoning - Crop Rotation from Allotment Vegetable Growing Advice

**Snadger** · 14-03-2010, 09:31 AM

Crop rotation relies on you liking to eat equal ammounts of legumes,brassicas,roots & others.

It was devised for farmers who practice monoculture on each field, then sell there produce.

My simple crop rotation is for growing what I like to eat, never following like with like in each planting pocket.

Liming or mucking can be done as required before planting new crop. The brassica following beans scenario because of the fixated nitrogen left by the former is great in theory, but in practice I've found it doesn't make any difference.

**zazen999** · 14-03-2010, 09:39 AM

Exactly Snadger. I just rotate my spuds as then I know how much space I have for the other crops as most of them go in after the spuds are planted.

I don't lime now that I know my soil's pH; so no need to think about that.

The rest just fits in nicely; as I sow successionally and whatever is ready to go in - goes in where I have space.

I am making bean frames which will be permanent; so all the climbers will go in there each year; and when the spuds are in the mains will go into those beds and just be left alone and the whole lot harvested at the same time.

**weekendwellies** · 14-03-2010, 11:49 AM

This is the one I am planning to follow:

1. Potatoes
2. Legumes, peas and beans
3. Brassicas
4. Sweetcorn, squashes, pumpkins, courgettes etc
5. Roots (carrots, parsnips) and onion family

Then you simply move each type up 1 each year. So the legumes will go where the potatoes where before, etc

**Bramble_killer** · 14-03-2010, 11:56 AM

Originally posted by Snadger View Post

Crop rotation relies on you liking to eat equal ammounts of legumes,brassicas,roots & others.

It was devised for farmers who practice monoculture on each field, then sell there produce.

My simple crop rotation is for growing what I like to eat, never following like with like in each planting pocket.

Liming or mucking can be done as required before planting new crop. The brassica following beans scenario because of the fixated nitrogen left by the former is great in theory, but in practice I've found it doesn't make any difference.

This one I like the sound of better

We've increased the planting area by 2 more beds to I was going to get more confused.

I like to eat most vegetables so the equal amounts isn't that difficult. I can't think of anything we don't eat (except maybe endive)

**Norm** · 14-03-2010, 07:08 PM

I'm lazy! I grow spuds in tubs and roots in raised beds. The brassicas go in the plot where the peas and beans grew last year. The peas and beans get the newly mucked plot the brassicas were in last year. Lime added after testing if necessary. It's worked for me for 15 years.

**northepaul** · 14-03-2010, 10:50 PM

Originally posted by zazen999 View Post

Because she has swapped 1 and 3 with each other, and 2 and 5 with each other. Rather than rotated...

Aww come on Zazen she was just being imaginative

Announcement

Crop rotation

Crop rotation

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Latest Topics

Recent Blog Posts