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  • plums?

    hi
    looking to buy a couple of plum trees for my garden. just got a couple of questions if anyone can help

    1) which variety is best for growing in north west
    2) anyone know of any good deals on buying these?
    many thanks
    milly
    The glory of gardening: hands in the dirt, head in the sun, heart with nature. To nurture a garden is to feed not just on the body, but the soul.

    - Alfred Austin


  • #2
    I think Victoria is suitable. At least mine is growing well and looks to be the healthiest out of the 4 fruit trees that I bought. I'm slightly north of your location.
    Victoria is a self fertile variety.
    Morrisons occasionally get Victoria Plum trees in stock. @ £4.99 it's not a lot to lose and it just might surprise you. I don't think it gives the rootstock but it does state 4 metres after 10 years.
    Last edited by Migueli; 23-04-2009, 11:48 AM.

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    • #3
      thanks, i'll try morrisons
      The glory of gardening: hands in the dirt, head in the sun, heart with nature. To nurture a garden is to feed not just on the body, but the soul.

      - Alfred Austin

      Comment


      • #4
        4 metres after 10 years is likely to be St.Julien.A rootstock. With correct pruning, it is no problem to maintain Victoria at 2 metres - at least that's true of my Vic/SJA. Victoria seems to grow wider than it does high and it has a fairly "weeping" habit, due to the branches being long and thin and being pulled down by the weight of fruit.
        Victoria is fairly prone to diseases of the wood; canker and silver leaf, so watch out for dieback of shoots/branches. My Vic is always a reliable cropper, regardless of the season and doesn't have (or need) a pollinator.
        Apparently, Vic can become biennial if allowed to carry too much fruit (and it's long, thin branches may break under the strain of a heavy fruit load), but after the natural shedding of fruits in June, I thin my fruits (to remove damaged one's) when they're about 3/4" long; I can see the one's that have been "holed" by plum sawfly and so I snip those off and burn or crush them. It doesn't take long to do and the result is that I control the damage caused by plum sawfly, deter wasps attacking "holed" fruits and prevent biennial bearing.
        After I've manually "thinned" the plums, 90% of the remainder develop into blemish-free plums of good quality.

        I would not get more than one plum tree of the same variety. But if I ever got another, I'd get either "Early Laxton" (very early season, dual-purpose, self-fertile, compact growth) or "Marjorie's Seedling" (late season, dual-purpose, self-fertile, vigorous and disease resistant).

        HTH
        FB
        .

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