| |||||||
| Allotment Advice For serious vegetable growers |
Visit our sponsors for all your gardening and growing needs! |
![]() |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
| ||||
| Quote:
The soil in most gardens has strata layers. The topsoil could be from 4" to 15" thick. This is your growing soil, full of microbes,nutrients organic matter and soil borne fauna. Under this you have your subsoil, usually quite inert with not much happening in it, this could be another 4" to 15". Under this you have either bedrock, clay, sand, stones or even peat! You never mix the subsoil with the topsoil and always aim to extend the depth of your topsoil by double digging or applications of well rotted manure. In a deep bed you build upwards and add to the depth with more topsoil! This has a few benefits a) More depth of topsoil means deep rooted crops can be grown more easily b) A deep bed will be warmer because there is more surface area for the sun to shine on c) Easier to work on once established because you are cultivating at waist height so no bending and usually no wider than 4'0" so soil can be reached from either side. This is just the basics but I hope it will have answered your question to some degree!
__________________ My Majesty made for him a garden anew in order to present to him vegetables and all beautiful flowers.- Offerings of Thutmose III to Amon-Ra (1500 BCE) |
| ||||
| most informative thank you Snadger. Kind of thought I knew some of it, but deep beds throw me a bit. Mr MB has boarded some parts and added wr horse which we are using for strawberries and herbs, but they are still low down. Do they become deep beds over time?
__________________ Regards, Jane What sane person could live in this world and not be crazy? The creative adult is the child who has survived. Ursula LeGuin http://www.etribes.com/madderbat |
| ||||
| With cultivation, additional soil impovers, and untrodden, the beds will rise naturally over time, and paths will become compacted and sink with your walking up and down them. You can make edgeless beds, which I prefer - no carpentry, no extra cost, no slugs, and more manoeverability at the edges
__________________ SSx not every situation requires a big onion |
| ||||
| Thanks so much for all the help. It makes abit of sense now. My husband and I are fairly new to allotment growing, so any hints and tips would be greatly welcome.
__________________ PiperYour future lays before you, Like a sheet of driven snow. Be careful how you tread it, As every step will show |
| ||||
| Quote:
If the topsoil is 4" and your spade is 10" you must dig in an odd style to avoid mixing subsoil with topsoil. The aim is to cultivate a depth of usable soil by digging and adding other material.e.g. manure, sharp sand, lime. If you were energetic enough and had sufficient soil improvers you could make a sunken deep bed. How is there more surface area on a raised bed? 4'X12' is still 4'X12' even if it is two foot up. If you are taking the sides as an increase in surface area remember, they may get a solar gain to sunward, but this is balanced by a loss on the opposite side. The warmth should come from: the improved soil quality, better drainage and raising up to allow frost and cold air to "drain off".![]() BTW Chalk downland can have 1" of topsoil.
__________________ Always thank people who have helped you immediately, as they may not be around to thank later. Visit my blog at http://podsplot.blogspot.com/ I support http://www.hearingdogs.org.uk/ Last edited by Peter; 16-01-2007 at 10:39 PM. Reason: Remembered chalk. |
| ||||
| I did wonder about that, I thought it was just me being thick. How is there more surface area on a raised bed?
__________________ PiperYour future lays before you, Like a sheet of driven snow. Be careful how you tread it, As every step will show |
| ||||
| Imagine a string in a horizontal line between two points - now imagine another string in a convex line beginning and ending at the same place. If you compare the two lengths of string, the first would be shorter than the last = more surface area. If you arrange your beds E-W, there's often a big difference between crops on the North side and the South. North facing crops appear later and grow slower. You can use this to your advantage e.g. crops of broadies planted at the same time will grow at different rates, giving you a slightly later crop on the N side, and a slightly earlier crop on the S side. You can plant different crop on the same bed -squash on the S side, and lettuce on the North. And so on. If you run your beds N-S, both sides behave the same.
__________________ SSx not every situation requires a big onion Last edited by supersprout; 17-01-2007 at 12:15 PM. |
| ||||
| Oh I get it, because it isnt' a flat surface. If it's convex you measure the sides as well as the top. That clears that up, thank you once again.
__________________ PiperYour future lays before you, Like a sheet of driven snow. Be careful how you tread it, As every step will show |
| |||
| There's another factor to be taken into account where raised side beds are concerned, if they are waist height ones. That is that if situated where they get lots of sunshine, the sides will absorb warmth for all the time that they are not shaded; this can make a very real difference to how well plants germinate and grow. In effect they are getting warmed for the period of time that the area next to them is getting sunlight. But it's very noticeable (in my humble opinion ! ) that this depends partly on the weather patterns. If you live somewhere that tends to start off sunny then ends up overcast/rainy later in the day, then it makes sense to position your raised/deep beds where the sides will get more morning sunshine; vice versa I suppose means vice versa, although I think that would be pretty unnatural for our current climate....actually, come to think of it...what is that ? ![]() I had a friend once who ordered some topsoil from a quarry. Turned out it was subsoil; it looked great, it looked just like very dry soil, but it was lacking something vital - probably the soil microbes and nematodes - and not a single damn thing grew in it. Everything just withered and died. Love the signature, Piper ! |
| ||||
| Thanks for that Snohare, some good advice. Shame about your friend, I bet they were gutted. Did they have to get rid and replace?
__________________ PiperYour future lays before you, Like a sheet of driven snow. Be careful how you tread it, As every step will show |
| ||||
| Quote:
On a different tack, I notice you have some bales of straw in the distance! If you get an old window frame and make the sides from bales, they make a wonderfully insulated cold frame!
__________________ My Majesty made for him a garden anew in order to present to him vegetables and all beautiful flowers.- Offerings of Thutmose III to Amon-Ra (1500 BCE) |
| ||||
| Quote:
Living in a house is warmer than living in a cave! Any structure raised above ground level will be warmer than one below in summer, because the sun would warm all sides (plus top) apart from the North, which you would make the narrow side, the opposite would be true in winter. Paint it black and it will be warmer still! If chalk downland people have allotments with 1" of topsoil, my heart goes out to them!
__________________ My Majesty made for him a garden anew in order to present to him vegetables and all beautiful flowers.- Offerings of Thutmose III to Amon-Ra (1500 BCE) |
| ||||
| Quote:
Soon it will have a polythene frame over the top and spuddies hopefully waking up inside
__________________ SSx not every situation requires a big onion Last edited by supersprout; 17-01-2007 at 06:46 PM. |
| ||||
| Quote:
P.S. Your real names not Bob Flowerdew is it??????? Lol
__________________ My Majesty made for him a garden anew in order to present to him vegetables and all beautiful flowers.- Offerings of Thutmose III to Amon-Ra (1500 BCE) |
![]() |
« Previous Thread
|
Next Thread »
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
| |
All times are GMT +1. The time now is 09:40 AM.








Piper






Linear Mode
