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  • a question about (double) digging

    Right, There's not much on the plot and I'm thinking about my plan for digging it over this winter. We've had a few frosty nights, and a friend told me that you couldn't dig when the ground was heavy and 'clumped' as you would damage the soil structure. Surely this doesn't mean I can't dig all winter? I was planning on giving the ground a good digging over as it's been a bit neglected, and I would welcome any advice.

  • #2
    Dig now we did best to dig rather than not we did when we got our plot this time last year had weeds taller than me
    It just means it will be harder work cos the soil will be heaver
    Some things in their natural state have the most VIVID colors
    Dobby

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    • #3
      And you shouldn't stand on wet soil (if it sticks to your boots, its too wet to dig). You'll only compact the ground, making it worse. If you really must dig, stand on a board to spread your weight a bit.
      You can see bad compaction in the fields where the tractors have been ... really waterlogged and the rain won't drain away at all.
      All gardeners know better than other gardeners." -- Chinese Proverb.

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      • #4
        Yes, you can dig in the winter as long as the ground isn't frozen or waterlogged. Also depends on how you dig - if you use a spade and turn the lumps upside down, then you are putting cold (or frozen) soil a spit down and it probably won't thaw out. I don't very often use a spade as I find it really hard work. I use a fork to get the perennial roots and loosen the topsoil - works for me.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by rustylady View Post
          Yes, you can dig in the winter as long as the ground isn't frozen or waterlogged. Also depends on how you dig - if you use a spade and turn the lumps upside down, then you are putting cold (or frozen) soil a spit down and it probably won't thaw out. I don't very often use a spade as I find it really hard work. I use a fork to get the perennial roots and loosen the topsoil - works for me.
          Or better still adopt a no-dig regime! Heavy mulch with manure each year and let the worms do your digging!
          My Majesty made for him a garden anew in order
          to present to him vegetables and all beautiful flowers.- Offerings of Thutmose III to Amon-Ra (1500 BCE)

          Diversify & prosper


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          • #6
            Yes to Snadger's idea, as long as the perennial weed roots come out ...

            I see no point in digging just for the sake of it. No need.
            All gardeners know better than other gardeners." -- Chinese Proverb.

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            • #7
              Hi Queen,

              You had the baby then? or RU planning to dig while pregnant!?

              The time to dig is the autumn, as it takes some time for the soil to settle afterwards. Leave the soil in clods- the frost and worms will break it down for you. Your ability to dig will depend on what your soil is like. You obviously need to get on with it though! We have light soil with good drainage here and it is rarely frozen solid; heavy soils require grit, drier weather and more elbow grease. To save your back, when you dig try not to lift great clods of soil in the air but rather, flick them over with your wrists.

              "Double digging" is great; but hard work and you should only have to do it once- whatever method you later employ. To do a whole allotment takes a long time and several tons of muck. Here's how: Dig a trench one spade wide/deep (aka a'spit' ) barrow soil and deposit at far end of the bed. break up soil at the bottom of trench with a fork and incorporate a barrow of muck. Do NOT bring subsoil to surface but dig the next trench adjacent turning the soil onto the improved subsoil adding another barrow of muck and removing weed roots and rocks as you go(dont worry about small stones too much.) then Fork over the bottom of this new trench, add muck etc and so on till your crippled at the other end- where you stick your saved soil in the last trench!

              After that you can follow either the No dig/raised bed method.... Never walk on your soil, and mulch twice a year (or use green manure to lock in nutrients when fallow) the disadvantage is that paths take up space and maintenance... although devotees would say this is offset by production being more intensive on utilised land

              Alternatively traditional digging is one spit deep each autumn removing weed roots and adding muck, lime or nothing as you rotation dictates. This can be done with a tiller or fork. disadvantage is access to weed etc.

              I use a combination of both methods, but I try not to walk on the large beds (never when waterlogged) and I use duck boards when sowing. and hoeing- though rarely to harvest (when its usually dry.)

              A last method that I employ to clear ground is Mypex membrane. I move it around and grow spuds, and most other things, through it for a year or three until land is relatively weed free.

              In the spring, just lightly fork over rake and beat to a fine tilth before sowing. If your soil tends to 'cap' at this stage line and cover your seed furrow with compost and water a little everyday till seedlings are established.

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              • #8
                errrrrr, baby?

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by queen of the cobs View Post
                  errrrrr, baby?
                  What?.........you didn't know???
                  My Majesty made for him a garden anew in order
                  to present to him vegetables and all beautiful flowers.- Offerings of Thutmose III to Amon-Ra (1500 BCE)

                  Diversify & prosper


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                  • #10
                    Apologies for that senior moment, I confused you with Chrissie, I think?

                    Well, Fill yer boots then...Haven't you finished digging it yet!....'tho on reflection.A baby might be a long term solution... child labour is cheap, if unwilling!

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