Fish Blood and Bone....

**taff** · 02-09-2011, 01:57 PM

fish blood and bone is a fertiliser made from, as the name suggests, fish blood and bone. I've used it, but haven't really paid attention to the results, haven't had any bad ones anyway...
2nd question, no idea sorry, I don't do lawns apart from cutting them

**Aisles** · 02-09-2011, 02:23 PM

I find it's not bad at all I use it on the veggie plot and it's organic

as for the yellow patches might I ask if you have a dog a bitch in fact as their urine kills the grass if they go frequently in the same place due to the horomes in the wee.

**Thelma Sanders** · 02-09-2011, 02:31 PM

BF&B is a good general fertiliser, the organic equivalent of Growmore

I wouldn't treat the lawn with anything until it grows a bit more, just give it a good soaking when the skies don't do it for you

**shaunbrook** · 02-09-2011, 02:42 PM

So there is Blood,Blone and fish for a general fertilier. Then there is the one for Acidic plants. What does Bone Meal do then as i was going to post this question too haha?????

**Snadger** · 02-09-2011, 05:15 PM

Originally posted by shaunbrook View Post

So there is Blood,Blone and fish for a general fertilier. Then there is the one for Acidic plants. What does Bone Meal do then as i was going to post this question too haha?????

Bone meal supplies slow release nitrogen and is phosphatic. Used usually when planting shrubs/soft fruit etc as the phosphate encourages new root growth and the trickled nitro feed keeeps the plant green.

**Snadger** · 02-09-2011, 05:19 PM

Usually a fertiliser high in potassium is used to harden the sward for the winter to come.
Not recommended to apply nitrogen at this time of year as this will give green lush growth which once the onslaught of winter arrives, could perish.

**pauco** · 02-09-2011, 06:47 PM

Hi Ross, welcome to the Vine.

The best advice i can give you for your lawn is.

1.
Scarifying, use a spring tine rake so it willremove dead grass and plant bits.

2.
Aerating.
Any garden fork will do. Just go over the whole lawn. This allows air and water to reach the root zone. It also helps stop compaction, your lawn will cope better with drought/water logging.

3.
Twice a year top dressing also helps to help lawn cope with the worst Nature can throw on it.
Just make sure you brush dressing in with a good stiff brush.

The following year should see you with a good healthy lawn to be proud of.

paul.

**Glutton4...** · 02-09-2011, 07:45 PM

My Dad moaned like mad about the mess my Chickens made of his lawn. However, the part they were on is by far the best part of the whole lawn, now; all glossy and green, when the rest is still a grass/clover battle.

The reason for this, I think, is that the Chickens scratched out all the moss and dead thatch (my Dad doesn't use a collector on his mower) from the lawn, and fertilised it as they went. OK, they didn't aerate it, but 2 out of 3 has made a huge improvement!

**Two_Sheds** · 02-09-2011, 08:04 PM

My lawn is 50% daisy/dandy/clover, but that does mean it stays green all summer

**Snadger** · 02-09-2011, 08:51 PM

Originally posted by Two_Sheds View Post

My lawn is 50% daisy/dandy/clover, but that does mean it stays green all summer

And with the clover fixating nitrogen it will stay green all winter as well!

**Glutton4...** · 02-09-2011, 08:54 PM

Oh, I didn't say it wasn't green!

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