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Thread: Vegetable rotation

  1. #9
    hedgehogneil is offline Germinator
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    Hi everyone, thanks for the replies, it has helped a lot. Sounds like I don't have to be too precise, which is reassuring. Thanks again!
    Neil.

  2. #10
    Doncasterpaul is offline Seedling
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    I had the same question a few years back and read everything. After the first year it just became a bit confusing and a pain. So as the other posts say. Just don’t plant anything twice. Especially spuds and onions.
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  3. #11
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    Teds Mum is online now Seedling
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    I started the year with a rotation plan much as you describe, had a drawing and everything. Most of it got planted in different positions according to available space.
    I'm just going to try and make sure I plant everything in a different position next time.

    Having said that my sister has runner beans in the same position every year with great results.
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  4. #12
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    Vegetable rotation-capture.jpg

    Here is one I prepared earlier. Like above don't grow in same location consecutive years other than the green section which can be anywhere. Brassicas after beans to get benefit of nitrogen fixing properties (don't dig beans bed)

    Lime after potatoes (if needed) to prevent potatoes getting scab

    All best
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  5. #13
    Thelma Sanders is online now Gardening Guru
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    Modern research suggests that little or no, Nitrogen is left by legumes for the following crop, even if you dig in all the leaves and stems of the plant, when most of us move these to the compost heap.
    The legume uses most of the nitrogen it obtained to produce seeds the beans and peas. If you harvest the seeds or any other part of the plant, you are removing most of the nitrogen before it gets to the soil.
    https://www.gardenmyths.com/legumes-add-nitrogen-soil/
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  6. #14
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    4Shoes is offline Cropper
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thelma Sanders View Post
    Modern research suggests that little or no, Nitrogen is left by legumes for the following crop, even if you dig in all the leaves and stems of the plant, when most of us move these to the compost heap.


    https://www.gardenmyths.com/legumes-add-nitrogen-soil/
    Interesting.... so that supports the idea of a field bean crop (green manure) over winter before brassica crop. i.e. you dig / compost it back in.
    Last edited by 4Shoes; 29-12-2018 at 08:46 PM.
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  7. #15
    Thelma Sanders is online now Gardening Guru
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    That's the only way it could make a difference, as long as you don't take any beans to eat
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  8. #16
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    I also don't have a set rotation plan, i add as much compost as i can, I don't dig it in and I've never had a serious problem.
    Actually come to think about it, i once lost an entire crop of maincrop potatoes, (I don't ususally grow maincrop potatoes) to blight.
    But then everyone on the site lost their maincrop too, so not too sure about that one
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