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  1. #9
    Hockeynut is offline Germinator
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    Oh dear, I fear I may have got it a bit wrong with this first batch of seeds then. I haven't had time to transplant them yet, I won't until tomorrow, and they are about 4-6 CM long now. Nevermind, maybe I'll have to consider them education and do better with a fresh batch of seeds.

    Can I re-use the same compost, or does it need to be fresh each time?
    Should I keep them covered until the seeds sprout?

    So just to clarify, should I move them into 3"pots as soon as they are poking through by about 1cm? I mistakenly previously misunderstood and thought that they should stay in the prop until the second set of leaves.

    Sorry for so many questions!

    I also tried following some of this advice:
    South Devon Chilli Farm - Growing Chillies from seed, Part 1
    South Devon Chilli Farm - Growing Chillies from seed - part 2

    Quote Originally Posted by chrismarks View Post
    Hello, welcome! Do you play hockey?
    I used to play Ice and inline.
    Last edited by Hockeynut; 18-03-2011 at 08:02 AM.

  2. #10
    Kristen is offline Early Fruiter
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    You can transplant the 4 - 6 CM seedlings into individual pots. You can bury them right up to the first seed leaves - which may be helpful if the initial stem that grew out of the see is quite lengthy.

    The seedlings in your picture do look very drawn from lack of light though, so they may be weak as a result. But worth a go I reckon - daylight is improving, so new growth will be stronger and less leggy. But get them into better light if you can - and put some tinfoil behind them on the windowsill to reflect light.
    Last edited by Kristen; 18-03-2011 at 08:22 AM.
    K's Garden blog the story of the creation of our garden

  3. #11
    chris's Avatar
    chris is offline < moo beans.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hockeynut View Post
    I used to play Ice and inline.
    Completely OT - but I used to be a regular in roller snakes in notts, spent so much there on inline kit. Moved over to ice now though! G'luck with the seedlings

  4. #12
    Hockeynut is offline Germinator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kristen View Post
    You can transplant the 4 - 6 CM seedlings into individual pots. You can bury them right up to the first seed leaves - which may be helpful if the initial stem that grew out of the see is quite lengthy.

    The seedlings in your picture do look very drawn from lack of light though, so they may be weak as a result. But worth a go I reckon - daylight is improving, so new growth will be stronger and less leggy. But get them into better light if you can - and put some tinfoil behind them on the windowsill to reflect light.
    Excellent point Kristen, I had forgotten I could plant them upto those first leaves! I'll pot them into 3" pots tomorrow, I assume I take any soil that stick onto the roots to the next pot... rather than shaking it off?

    They do look a little weak though, that pic is old, they look a bit worse now, so we'll see. Ill get it right on the next batch that take their place in the prop.




    OT
    Quote Originally Posted by chrismarks View Post
    Completely OT - but I used to be a regular in roller snakes in notts, spent so much there on inline kit. Moved over to ice now though! G'luck with the seedlings
    Hehe! I remember that. And rollers, where the bowling rink now is!
    Although I'm from Notts, I played up in Sheffield and Rotherham.

  5. #13
    Kristen is offline Early Fruiter
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hockeynut View Post
    I assume I take any soil that stick onto the roots to the next pot... rather than shaking it off?
    Yes. If you pot-up when they are very small they may only have a single tap root, in which case probably no compost will "stick", but if they are larger and the root structure more developed, they will probably have a little "root ball", and you can just drop the whole thing, roots, root ball, and the stem up to the seed leaves, into the little hole you made in the new pot.

    (Trying to remove the compost runs the risk of damaging the roots, but I do have a prod about with the pencil I use to tease them out of the seed tray to remove the "excess" before planting then into their new pot)
    K's Garden blog the story of the creation of our garden

  6. #14
    Hockeynut is offline Germinator
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    That's what I was thinking, thanks Kristen.

    They are in John Innes No 3 at the moment, should I pot on into No 2 yet, or still use No 3 for the 3" pots?

    Also, can I reuse the No 3 that I have in the propagators for the next seeds to germinate, or will it have lost its nutrients?

  7. #15
    Kristen is offline Early Fruiter
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    You would be better with J.I. Seed compost for seed sowing - that has the least nutrients (and seeds don't need any / much). J.I. No 1 is the "weakest" and No 3 the "strongest", so perhaps you have them in the wrong sequence?

    Apart from using Seed Compost for initial germination I am, personally, not too fussy about what I used after that. For my Tubs and Urns I use J.I. No 3 as the planting is fairly permanent, and I think peat-based composts are very hard to re-wet if they dry out, and soil based are easier, but for everything else I just use multi-purpose - particularly for things that get planted out in the garden /veg patch.

    For serious chilli growing (if that is the route you are heading down) you need to ask a serious chilli grower , 'coz my chillies just get treated the same as all my other veg, rather than the Love and Attention of a more specific hobby
    K's Garden blog the story of the creation of our garden

  8. #16
    ugley_matt is offline Sprouter
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    I've just checked my tomatoes and they look very similar so i guess its time to prick the leggy ones out.

    Sorry to hijack your thread but, is it a general rule for all plants that once the seedling has broken through you need to reduce the temperature and give them even light. The theory being you want them to be nice and compact and sturdy, so a little bit cooler and light will do the trick?

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