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Thread: Advice on starting a raspberry patch

  1. #9
    nickdub is online now Early Fruiter
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    Jul 2017


    Some sensible advice given already - I'd just add one word of caution about accepting offsets from other people's plants, make sure as far as you can that the donor plants are really growing well and productively, as raspberry virus is fairly common, and really means that plants that are infected are not worth growing.

  2. #10
    Snadger's Avatar
    Snadger is offline Dundiggin
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    Aug 2006
    Durham. Pink Panther territory


    I had a setup like Scarlets. Stout post at each end of the row, small cross piece at bottom and longer cross piece higher up. Stretch wires between the ends of the cross pieces and tie canes into the cross wires at alternate sides. Keeps rasps tidy and easy to pick.
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  3. #11
    marchogaeth's Avatar
    marchogaeth is offline Early Fruiter
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    Preseli Hills North Pembrokeshire
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    I don't think anyone has said this yet but they don't like to be planted deep, some as shallow as 1 1/2" so check for the cultivar you buy. Cold roots in the winter promotes fruiting.

    I only grow Autumn ones - nobwires necessary. You should cut them off at ground level at the end of the season which can just be done with a brush cutter or hedge cutter. I cut half of mine off half way and pull out the last season canes - this gives fruit earlier. Also if you cut them down after Christmas, the dead canes make a good wildlife habitat.
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  4. #12
    4Shoes's Avatar
    4Shoes is offline Cropper
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    I find the Autumn fruit are too late here in Wigtownshire to get a good Autumn crop, so I've started to grow them as "Summer Fruiting". i.e. You treat them like summer canes - cut out the old canes and tidy up this season - you'll get a reasonable summer crop followed by limited fruit into the Autumn.

    I have summer canes too, so plan that when I move them to just retain the summer stock.
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  5. #13
    AllotmentMummy is offline Seedling
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    Dec 2018


    Thank you everyone, those are really helpful tips!
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  6. #14
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    Mar 2016


    I second Marchogaeth - just grow autumn fruited. I grow Polka and they crop from July through to November and I chop them down to the ground in December/January. They don't need any other work. No need for supports.

    As regards being too close together, I've got two rows of (originally) 10 canes in a bed 20ft x 5ft and pick from the edges. Because there are no supports its easy to reach across.
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  7. #15
    Kirk is offline Cropper
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    Feb 2013
    S Cambs/N Herts


    I would also advise to just grow Autumn ones, simply easier to manage as the basic principle is to let them grow, they produce fruit then you cut them back to ground level. That sort of covers March to November. You have a break over Christmas and the cycle stars again the following March.

    They will spread and they will thicken up, a single cane will become say 3 canes in a group next year, the next year the same occurs. And while thickening up they are throwing out runners.

    Do not mix Autumn and Summer varities, pruning becomes just about impossible then.

    They are shallow rooted so add a layer of mulch to maintain moisture. They are actually woodland plants.
    Last edited by Kirk; 10-01-2019 at 04:01 PM.
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  8. #16
    Gillykat's Avatar
    Gillykat is offline Tuber
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    Feb 2015
    Alnwick, Northumberland


    I got 3 Polka last year and temporarily potted them up in large pots.....and forgot to put them in the ground I'll get them in next week when I'm off work and doing a lot of work on the plot.

    I also grow Joan J (autumn) and LOVE them for size and flavour I recently dug up 4 offshoots from my main plant and I'll get them planted next week too in a permanent bed.

    I'll sort out some summer varieties at some point Got some growing behind the greenhouse and they're no idea what variety they are though as they ere already there when I took over the plot
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