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Can anyone recommend a chemical control that they know works on Pear Midge?
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There is one which I saw on several sites (can't remember the name, but don't think it would be too hard to Google) but like every insecticide it does pose a threat to bees - for me as a bee-keeper, I'd only spray if I could put it on when the bees aren't interested in the flowers anymore eg if the midge could be sprayed after most of the nectar flow and pollen had stopped for that tree for this season.Last edited by nickdub; 18-02-2019, 02:13 PM. -
Nick ideally i am looking to find someone that has suffered and then resolved the problem - lots of the stuff on the internet is frankly nonsense. I would rather not spray at all but i have lost almost every pear for the last couple of years.Originally posted by nickdub View Post
https://www.gardenfocused.co.uk/frui...pear-midge.php
This site recommends spraying while the blossom is still closedComment
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I had to spray my apples because of scab and I do it this time of year before the buds are anywhere near opening. Don't grow Pears so can't help with the midge, the only mention in my books is this from Geoff Hamilton's Gardeners World book, " spray with fenitrothion or pirimiphos-methyl at white bud stage ", don't know if this helps.Comment
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No personally experience so far but my ageing fruit book says "spray with hexyl at white bud."
https://secure.fera.defra.gov.uk/pus...chards2016.pdf
Page 29 on this study will give you a list of what chemicals the professionals are spraying for pear midge - it would of course be illegal for you to find somewhere selling such chemicals and responsibly spraying your own tree.Comment
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Thanks I think Thiacloprid sold under the label Calypso 480 is the one.......there are also companies within the EU that sell it and will ship to the UK (for free!)Originally posted by Lardman View Post
some more interesting info on the horrible PM found here https://www7.inra.fr/hyppz/RAVAGEUR/6conpyr.htm#imaLast edited by GBax; 18-02-2019, 06:35 PM.Comment
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I'll be watching on with interest as I have pear midge which usually attacks my Jargonelle tree although the Conference one is generally unaffected - I may decide to spray if I can be bothered, but I'm generally pretty lazy, so a lot of the time things just get left to themselves - if I do do anything I'll post about it on here somewhere.Originally posted by GBax View PostComment
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Originally posted by nickdub View Post
Nick for me - 'Beth' seems very prone as does 'Josephine de Malines' and 'Winter Nelis'......'Doyenne de Comice' and 'Concord' less so.......'Louise Bonne of Jersey' and 'Beurre Hardy' are too immature to say as is 'Black Worcester'
According to the internet some varieties are more prone than othersComment
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I've got a Josephine de Malines too, but as I only have ever had half a dozen fruit of it so far, it certainly wouldn't be worth spraying. One of the problems with a pest like pear midge is that even if you can eradicate from your own garden chances are that there is a reservoir of infestation in the surrounding area, which means you'll have to deal with it again next year too.Comment
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Originally posted by nickdub View Post
I have an allotment on one side of me so there is certainly a 'reservoir' close by. Would certainly not be as bad as having the cocoons directly under the tree.Comment
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Just a reminder for those who have a pear midge problem, then if you intend to do something the time is here. The flowers on my pears look likely to open in the next few days ie "white bud" stage. For myself I've decided to wrap some of the branches in fleece and then unwrap this for a very short period so the bees can get at them, then re-wrap - I'm not going to try an insecticide, as I keep bees. The unwrapped branches will be checked later in the season and if the midge has got to them as I expect, I'll either prune them off completely or take of all the fruit-lets.Comment
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Lay polythene or similar under the affected tree/trees to stop them burrowing into the ground to hibernate,
also remove and burn any obviously affected fruit.
Let chickens loose but restrict the area they use to under the trees so they can scratch around under the pear trees looking for tasty morsels.
Grow something else.
I sometimes wonder if growing pear trees is worth all the hassle.
Bent the main leader on one pear tree to prune it and it snapped of----then this thing(grub/caterpillar) stuck its head out as if to say "oi, what are you doing interrupting me", the grub is now deceased!---never managed to find out what it was---'bout 1.5 " long, sadly I didn't have a camera with me at the time--approx 1.5 months agoLast edited by fishpond; 21-03-2019, 10:35 AM.Feed the soil, not the plants.
(helps if you have cluckies)
Man v Squirrels, pigeons & Ants
BobComment
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I'm giving it a go with the experiment I mentioned. If it turns out to be too much bother or not work, I'll be planting something-else where the pear tree is now.Comment
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The first year we moved in here we also lost every pear on the tree as well.Originally posted by GBax View Post
Clear the ground under and as mentioned above lay a sheet down so when the fruit falls the grubs can't get in the soil.
Remover every fruit immediately it looks to be infected
Prune to avoid excessive branches.
We now have almost eliminated it 'tho as mentioned above th4e little blighters can 'drift' over from neighbouring land if it not cultivated.
HTHComment
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I'm sure that would do the trick, but its too much work for the benefit as far as I'm concerned - thanks anyway for the suggestion.Comment
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