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Sprayer or watering can for Rosate 360

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  • Sprayer or watering can for Rosate 360

    Hello, I'm looking for some advice.

    I want to rid my garden 'lawn' of the weeds, clover and grass, then start over. I bought a small carton of Rosate 360.

    Whenever I search the net about applying the Rosate, it always states to use a sprayer.

    Would it make any difference if I used a watering can to apply herbicide? Why would a sprayer be better?

    In case you hadn't noticed I'm a complete novice! Thanks for any help.

  • #2
    Why do you want to kill the grass as well? My inclination would be to use a selective weedkiller like Verdone-------there will be others-------- which will kill off your clover and a miriad of broad leaved weeds and yet leave your grass intact. That way you can top dress any bare patches and reseed whereas what you intend to do will kill everything and you will have to prep and reseed the whole area.

    To get to your question though, using a watering can you will inevitably have run offwill be wastefull and expensive. A light spray as opposed to a drenching is all that is required.

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    • #3
      Is it a specific type of grass you want to grow? A nice green lawn is something else.....

      It is always someone else who looks after it and it is a lot of work.

      There is nothing more to remind you of summer than lying on the lawn near a patch of clover... The smell and the buzz of the honey bees... add some strawberries and cream...

      Would tend to spot treat it.

      Keep the beneficial plants and treat the rest.

      A rooser is not the tool for the job

      rooser

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Anthonylondon27 View Post

        In case you hadn't noticed I'm a complete novice! Thanks for any help.
        Hi and welcome, Anthony.
        The best help we can offer you is not to use Rosate. Its overkill, literally, for garden lawns ..
        Tell us what your plans are for your garden and we'll do our best to help.

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        • #5
          Thanks for all the replies so far.

          The lawn is very small (4m x 6m) and is covered in weeds, clover, and patches. There is very little grass there anyway.

          My plan is simply to create a nice grass lawn.

          I thought the best thing would be to start afresh since it's such a small area and there's hardly any grass there anyway.

          I would like to turn the soil and perhaps add some topsoil, then sow seeds.

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          • #6
            Have you considered skimming off the top surface and turfing it?

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            • #7
              Given the size of lawn, your probably right. Spray to kill off, then decide on turf or Seed. Best time to sow seed is when the grass sets seed in your area. anytime if your prepared to water it.

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              • #8
                A watering can would suffice, but you'd end up applying far more Rosate than you need.
                For instance 5 litres of mixed glyphosate is enough to cover an area 100m square.
                In a watering can you'd be lucky to cover an area 5m square before it ran out.

                A couple of things to note.

                Aim to dilute at 20-25ml per litre of water.
                It takes about 3-4 weeks before you see full results, so don't be impatient and think it's not working.
                Don't walk on the newly applied weedkiller, and then walk on grass you wish to keep.
                It will transfer from your shoes.

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                • #9
                  You can get a 5 Ltr sprayer for under £10 and keep it for nasty chemicals. That way your watering can will remain usable without fear of damage to other plants in the near future. Also the fine mist of a sprayer will give a better application to the leaves than the run off created by a watering can.
                  Expect the green to turn brown slowly and it is advisable to wait a full two weeks (or more) for the systemic weedkiller to get down into the roots and the top growth to go crispy.
                  If you can hire a rotavator and get it into the area that is a great way to cultivate the surface finely for seeding, you can add compost/soiul improver in the top few inches at his stage if needed. Then 'trample' the surface to firm and use a large 24"+ (landscape) rake which gives and easier level without rocking side to side and digging in, or make a simple 'T' shape with timber and push/pull to get level and use a garden rake after.
                  The seed will need to be kept moist for 3 weeks or more after sowing else it just dries of and dies. For this reason a sprinkler is required or use the tradition spring/autumn sowing periods rather than My Sept where long dry spells can occure. the soil will till easier when it's moist anyway.

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                  • #10
                    Thank you for all the advice everyone. I will start this today.

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