oak floorinig

**Caro** · 05-08-2010, 12:51 PM

Hi Miffy,

Can't give you any specific pointers, but a few things I learned when I put a new wood floor in our living room:

- get the thickest grade wood you can afford. It will get marked/damaged over time, but if it's a decent thickness (and real wood, not laminate) then you'll be able to sand it all down and resurface and it will last for many, many years.
- for heavy use areas (which I would say kitchen and conservatory are) consider a finish that already looks slightly used, ie as if it's been there for years, not a finish that is all shiny and obviously new
- are you really sure you want it in the conservatory? a wooden floor, as far as I know, can never be fully waterproof and tile might be better? If you do want it in the conservatory, best ask the salesman or research online to see which finishes are most impermeable.
- pop into a couple of outlets and browse - it's amazing how much info you can pick up just chatting to the staff, and you'll soon get an idea of which shops want to help you get the best for you, and which just want your money

Sorry, that's probably not much help, really

**miffy** · 05-08-2010, 02:30 PM

Thank you so very much for taking the time to reply, I am very nervous about spending this much money and your views and opinions are most welcome.
I have been into a store today and spoken to a really nice chap who said engineered oak was the best thing for the conservatory or even ash as it will be able to flex and move more than a solid wood flooring, he also said to get oiled oak as you say in solid wood form as it will take the knocks and bumps more of a busy household and will have an aged patina.
Thank you for your kindness in replying.
Miffyx

**green thing** · 05-08-2010, 10:58 PM

Hi miffy
it all depends on the look your after and how much time and maintenance you want to put into it
solid oak flooring
can be sanded down when it marks and will need to be wax or oil
every few years
wax and water don't mix well turn the wax finish white
oil is much tougher
engineered flooring
is made from all the off cuts and low grade timber stuck together and can only be sanded a few times the wax finish on these floors is not proper wax and the dust sticks to it
other sprayed finishes are too hard and tend to scratch very easy
I've seen some engineered floors that also fade very badly with uv light

**Snadger** · 06-08-2010, 06:24 AM

Building a kitchen extension/utility area.

You've just given me an idea for flooring!

**brad1001** · 06-08-2010, 10:02 AM

we floored our kitchen last year with oak we got from a reclaim yard.it came from a pub demolition and is a few hundred years old.once it was laid sanded and oiled it looked stunning.the dark honey colour realy came through.
id have a look around,theres reclaim yards all over the place and to be honest you cant beat aged oak for apperance and the price was excellent.

**miffy** · 06-08-2010, 05:58 PM

Originally posted by Snadger View Post

Building a kitchen extension/utility area.

You've just given me an idea for flooring!

Have been looking at lots of companies on the web, oakfloorsonline.co.uk, have been so helpful, lovely guys. Not the cheapest but really helpful and know their stuff, they also sent samples really quickly so I could see what they were talking about.

I did look at reclaimed oak too but needed alot of prep and I am a novice so have gone with new instead.

**The Large One** · 06-08-2010, 09:06 PM

i wouldn't go for engineered boards, they can be cheaper but as previous stated get thickest you can afford 18-22mm minimum

who's fitting it ??
no point getting a few quids worth of oak flooring to give to someone who makes a hash of installing it

i would also be wary of online suppliers, you NEED to view the flooring in samples or laid as all forms are different and too late when a bundle that looks nice on the tinternet arrives and it's not nice in real life

after numerous scouts round to different suppliers and showrooms i ended up getting some from Wickes of all places (as it was on sale) but it's been brilliant. even though i fitted it myself...hence comment above

one tip
it will move (expand) so when it says leave expansion gaps round the edge of 15-20 mm and you think...nahhh it won't move that much..it will

HTH

Nick

**miffy** · 06-08-2010, 09:08 PM

Thanks for the advice Nick. We have a very competent builder who is laying the floor. I have seen his work first hand and I know he does exactly what it says on the tin!!
Have got samples from the company I am buying from and all their products come with a 25 year warranty and they are a local company too.

Thank you for the advice.
Miffyx

**The Large One** · 06-08-2010, 09:16 PM

sounds like you have it covered

**miffy** · 06-08-2010, 09:19 PM

Originally posted by The Large One View Post

sounds like you have it covered

Haven't at the moment but will do when the floor is down!! LOL

**Hilary B** · 10-08-2010, 03:19 PM

Just remember that however 'waterproof' the floor finish might be, some water WILL get into the wood. Make sure it can get OUT again (evaporation).
Wood that gets wet, and then dries readily, lasts a long time. Wood that stays slightly wet for prolonged periods ROTS!
Kitchens are a high risk area....

**miffy** · 10-08-2010, 10:09 PM

Have spoken to guy at the oak flooring company and we have talked through which thickness, length, grade, finish I need, he has recommend all wood for the kitchen with an oiled finish, this will sink into the wood and also between the planks which are tongued and grooved on all four edges and then stuck to the sub floor with a flexible glue, we are also adding in expansion strips around the edges.
Due to the variation in the temp in a conservatory, ie hot in day and colder at night, he recommend engineered boards but these too have a thick layer of oak onto a plywood backing with consecutive layers of ply going in different ways, this gives the wood stability in these quite harsh conditions. These again will be oiled for waterproofing, sealing but also to allow them to breathe, the boards in both cases also have been kiln dried and have a low humidity/mositure level compared to other boards i have looked at.
It is a scary thing to purchase such an expensive floor but it will add to our home and is totally in keeping with a period house, will let you all know how Mark our builder gets on and perhaps some photos of before and after!!

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