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Is it worth growing a pear tree for fruit in NE England?

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  • #16
    I think I must have been drunk or having a senior moment when I replied earlier in the thread. My tree is NOT Douce de Provence (a variety of pea I believe). It is Doyenne du Comice. The pears are great.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by ameno View Post
      Doyenne du comice is a late variety, which may not be ideal for where you are. You want early or mid varieties, really. Beurre Hardy would be fine, though.

      Also, cheap pear trees at a garden centre will definitely be on the Quince A rootstock, as it's the cheapest. Quince A grows quite large and is not as precocious as Quince C, so may well not fruit for 3-4 years.
      Knowing for sure what stock you've got is the one problem I have at the local place - they have all the labels but never tick which stock is used which can cause problems if you want something specific!

      I'm curious why a semi-dwarfing stock would mean you get fruit later though, it seems counter-intuitive that a less vigorous stock would fruit earlier?

      Looking online, pears are on A in all cases except a bush (C) so if you buy maidens, they come on A as well.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by d000hg View Post

        Knowing for sure what stock you've got is the one problem I have at the local place - they have all the labels but never tick which stock is used which can cause problems if you want something specific!

        I'm curious why a semi-dwarfing stock would mean you get fruit later though, it seems counter-intuitive that a less vigorous stock would fruit earlier?

        Looking online, pears are on A in all cases except a bush (C) so if you buy maidens, they come on A as well.
        A more dwarfing stock almost always fruits sooner. This is because a more dwarfing stock reaches "maturity" quicker because it doesn't grow nearly so large in the first place.

        Quince A is fine if you have the space and don't mind waiting 3-4 years for a crop, but for a garden Quince C would probably be better. Although soil is also a consideration. If you have poor soil, you may be better off with the more vigorous rootstock, as the more dwarfing one may struggle. I'm on rich clay where I am, so for me it's dwarf all the way.
        Quince A pear is about equivalent to MM106 for apple or St Julian for plum. Quince C is about equivalent to M27 for apple or Pixy/VVA for plum.

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        • #19
          It is said that Jargonelle will grow and crop in cool, dull locations or against North-facing walls.
          .

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          • #20
            Originally posted by burnie View Post
            I visit the Glendoick garden centre frequently, Ken Cox is a knowledgeable gardener/writer.
            That's good to know Burnie, thank you

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            • #21
              I used to have a huge conference pear tree which fruited reliably every year near York, and another unknown variety which did almost nothing most years. The biggest issue with pears as far as I am aware is that they flower early and if it is cold the flowers can be damaged by frost or simply not be pollinated due to lack of insects. I think this is an issue with early varieties, and that ripening for late varieties is much less of a problem, although I am far from an expert.

              Doyenne Du Comice is my favourite pear, but is apparently a temperamental cropper and needs warmth and another tree for cross pollination. I have opted for a minarette Concorde tree, which is self fertile and more cold tolerant, presumably due to the Conference cross. It is now in its 2nd year and so far hasn't produced any flowers or fruit, but I wasn't expecting anything until the 3rd year anyway.
              A life is like a garden. Perfect moments can be had, but not preserved, except in memory. LLAP. - Leonard Nimoy

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Penellype View Post
                I used to have a huge conference pear tree which fruited reliably every year near York, and another unknown variety which did almost nothing most years. The biggest issue with pears as far as I am aware is that they flower early and if it is cold the flowers can be damaged by frost or simply not be pollinated due to lack of insects. I think this is an issue with early varieties, and that ripening for late varieties is much less of a problem, although I am far from an expert.

                Doyenne Du Comice is my favourite pear, but is apparently a temperamental cropper and needs warmth and another tree for cross pollination. I have opted for a minarette Concorde tree, which is self fertile and more cold tolerant, presumably due to the Conference cross. It is now in its 2nd year and so far hasn't produced any flowers or fruit, but I wasn't expecting anything until the 3rd year anyway.
                Pears flower at around the same times as plums, and the topic creator says they already grow plums successfully, so they should be fine on that count.

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