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Moving a loganberry

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  • Moving a loganberry

    As above,i have one established,aprox 4years old,i would like to move it,as it's now in the wrong place for me,it has several long new runners for next year,if i was to very carefully,try and bunch these together,after removing this years growth,and loosely tie up,would i be in with chance,if any roots were to get a bit damaged,would it hurt it,and do i need to chop a bit of each runner,
    sigpicAnother nutter ,wife,mother, nan and nanan,love my growing places,seed collection and sharing,also one of these

  • #2
    Originally posted by lottie dolly View Post
    As above,i have one established,aprox 4years old,i would like to move it,as it's now in the wrong place for me,it has several long new runners for next year,if i was to very carefully,try and bunch these together,after removing this years growth,and loosely tie up,would i be in with chance,if any roots were to get a bit damaged,would it hurt it,and do i need to chop a bit of each runner,
    I don't know what your weather is Lottie but our's for the last couple of weeks is damp, dull and humid. If we are lucky I see the sun for a few hours some days which means it is the ideal time to move plants as they won't be AS stressed.

    Definitely remove old runners but keep the ones for next years fruit for now. Dig as much of the rootball as you are able, if an extra pair of hands are on hand to help with the move together with a wheelbarrow, you should be ably to move it with a fair old bit of soil.

    Feed the soil in the patch your are transferring it to as you replant it and water well.

    The rest depends on the weather you get. If it's hot and sunny then it won't hurt to water it well for the first couples of months (ideally drown it at least twice a week, whatever the weather ) and also it won't hurt if you have some spare fleece to loosely tie it over the plant during any hot spells. (as you've removed some it's roots by covering with fleece your stopping the water evaporating as quickly from it's leaves, as it doesn't have such a big rootball) The fact is you've removed this years canes so it doesn't have to support these, what you are trying to do is keep next years fruit.

    Heel the plant in well, you don't want it to rock with any wind we may have and mulch it at least 2in if you can.

    If you follow all these instructions then you should see no lost of next years fruiting growth.

    If the ends do start to die then reduce by at least half.

    If the plants still looks well in October this year then the chances are it will be just fine for next year, as in this warm weather the roots will be actively looking to re-anchor themselves and should do that within 2 months.

    I hope this makes sense, Good luck x

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    • #3
      Much better and easier to let the tips of the new runners touch the ground and if necessary weight them down with stones. These tips will root and make new small plants, which you can then move next year.

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      • #4
        Thankyou peeps,
        sigpicAnother nutter ,wife,mother, nan and nanan,love my growing places,seed collection and sharing,also one of these

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