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Thread: Top Tips

  1. #9
    HayleyB's Avatar
    HayleyB is offline Early Fruiter
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    Last year I discovered that slugs were munching my green lettuces grown in a growbag sitting right next to a growbag of Lollo Rossa which the slugs completely ignored. If you want slug free lettuces growing, along with a long season of cut and come again ease then Lollo Rossa is perfect for you.
    Hayley B

    John Wayne's daughter, Marisa Wayne, will be competing with my Other Half, in the Macmillan 4x4 Challenge (in its 10th year) in March 2011, all sponsorship money goes to Macmillan Cancer Support, please sponsor them at http://www.justgiving.com/Mac4x4TeamDuke'

    An Egg is for breakfast, a chook is for life

  2. #10
    cornish crabber is offline Seedling
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    When sowing seed in the open I find it a good idea to make a drill twice as deep as you need, half fill it with multi-purpose compost, water and sow the seed on to that and fill the drill with more compost. This makes it less likely that the seeds will dry out at the critical time.
    I also sprinkle some vermiculite along the row to help prevent drying out and to demarcate the row to make weed control easier. This works well for slow germinators like parsnip.

  3. #11
    Dogwednesday is offline Germinator
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    Default Jackie's Top Tip

    Hi,
    Put your hens in your polytunnel to clear it in January. They fertilize it for free, clear insects / bugs, clear weeds and come into lay quicker.
    Jackie

  4. #12
    Headfry's Avatar
    Headfry is offline Early Fruiter
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    I use different coloured labels....
    so, if I grow 3 different types of pepper I take a white label and write date, quantity, and type on this. I put it into pot with a say, red label directly behind it, then each pot of the same variety gets just a red label. This stops the need to write up many labels! I then use say blue for another variety and so on.
    sorry, does that make any sense at all?

  5. #13
    janto is offline Seedling
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    hi this year i sowed my parsnip seeds in toilet roll centers when they were 1" tall i transplanted into final possistion. germination was 98% after transplanting i covered with a little fleece never lost one so far.
    arowana likes this.

  6. #14
    Flummery's Avatar
    Flummery is offline Gardening Guru
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    My tip is to pot on tomatoes into a 3" pot when the first true leaves are through. Then leave them in this pot until there are signs of flower buds. They will be pot-bound but there's enough nutrient in your sowing compost to last for 6 weeks. Then plant them into their final positions. This mean I don't sow them until 6 weeks before they will be safe at night in my unheated greenhouse. Time to do some sums!
    Whoever plants a garden believes in the future.

    www.vegheaven.blogspot.com Updated March 9th - Spring

  7. #15
    archerellie3425 is offline Seedling
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    Default watering

    My tip is for a home made fine wateringcan, I found a normal one too heavy for new seedlings. take a clean used plastic milk bottle and with a needle pierce several holes in a circle at the top opposite the hande, fill with water and replace the lid, you can then tip the bottle and squeeze to create a fine sprinkling of water.
    arowana likes this.

  8. #16
    SlugLobber's Avatar
    SlugLobber is offline Early Fruiter
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    Short of heated growing space?

    If you're not worried about plants taking up room in the house, use your large pots indoors and place them inside clear (recycling) bags. This enables you to water them indoors and give them a head start.

    When you put the pots outdoors, you can then peg the top of the bag, so that each pot has its own frost-free/sheltered environment in harsh weather. This worked soooooo well for my potatoes, I've started off my first round parsnips in the same way.

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