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Thread: 3' or 4' wide beds.

  1. #17
    Glutton4...'s Avatar
    Glutton4... is offline Gardening Guru
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    SS - that's how I've designed my Polytunnel beds!

    Just got to get some plastic on the blimmin' thing....
    Last edited by Glutton4...; 18-07-2011 at 06:16 PM.
    All the best - Glutton 4 Punishment
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  2. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by singleseeder View Post
    I have seen plots that don't take the paths right to the boundary fence (think teeth in a comb with the fence being the spine and the beds being the teeth). If you stop the path 2' before the fence, you gain 2sq ft. This could compensate for lost growing space if you go for the 3' bed option. It does mean that you have to walk back to the centre path to get around to the other side of the bed though.
    Point taken ss, there are only 2 side of the plot thats fenced and am unable to reach, the other 2 sides I can reach from the grassed / chipped area.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hans Mum View Post
    OMG BM you're supposed to enjoy lottying not do complicated sums. The perfect chap on site is gonna have some serious competition Looking forward to watching your work in progress as I wander up to my unsymetrical plot
    I love your unsymmetrical plot, to me it's a blank canvas & the perfect time to plan different things.
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  4. #20
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    Florence Fennel is offline Gardening Guru
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    4' beds, although I don't practice conformity, more higgledy piggledy, but it works for me.
    Granny on the Game

  5. #21
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    Mine will be all 4' beds ....if it ever stops raining so that I can dig them .........I can reach from both sides and divide them into halves or quarters lengthwise for block planting (well that's the theory anyhoo )
    S*d the housework I have a lottie to dig
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    Quote Originally Posted by singleseeder View Post
    I have seen plots that don't take the paths right to the boundary fence (think teeth in a comb with the fence being the spine and the beds being the teeth). If you stop the path 2' before the fence, you gain 2sq ft. This could compensate for lost growing space if you go for the 3' bed option. It does mean that you have to walk back to the centre path to get around to the other side of the bed though.
    My last lottie was like that! I initially went for 4 foot beds with paths but then realised I could use 'combed' beds with a 2 foot backbone and get a lot more planting space whilst still being able to reach everything without stepping off the paths.
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  7. #23
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    I'm not trying to throw a spanner, honestly, but isn't the best arrangement sun-wise to have beds running North->South and rows running East->West?

    Also, visually, from inside your house, with them running across your garden the ones nearest the house might seem to block the view and make your garden look smaller. With the beds running N-S you'd also be able to see more of what's happening in each bed.

    If so, then your plan is the wrong way round and it might also lead to some plants being shaded out by taller ones as you 'rotate' - unless you're planning to have your rows running the length of the beds, or are using the square foot-type plan.

    The best veg bed width will be the one you can easily reach without treading on the soil and will depend on how tall you are, and how long your arms are.

  8. #24
    Aberdeenplotter is offline Gardening Guru
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glutton4... View Post
    Now maths isn't my strong point, BM, but I can use a calculator! I'm not sure that 2' is enough width for paths, though. Others may disagree.
    Depends on the waistline darling Seriously though, provided there are no internal gates or other obstacles, 2ft is ample for the use of wheelbarrows which are probably the widest things that would be used on the paths. I concede that overtaking would be difficult.

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