Which types of raspberry canes...

**rustylady** · 12-09-2012, 01:11 PM

The time to move either sort is when they are dormant and have lost all their leaves.

How long have you had these canes, and are they in pots or open ground?

**vikkib** · 12-09-2012, 01:54 PM

Originally posted by rustylady View Post

The time to move either sort is when they are dormant and have lost all their leaves.

Thanks for that! That makes that bit easier!

Originally posted by rustylady View Post

How long have you had these canes, and are they in pots or open ground?

The canes are on my lottie in the open ground.

This is the second season I've been there but I'm not sure how long they have been on the plot.

**rustylady** · 12-09-2012, 01:58 PM

Whichever sort they are, cut the canes that have borne fruit right down to the ground as soon as you have picked all the fruit.

With summer fruiting canes they usually put up a lot of new green canes during the summer. You leave these to carry fruit next year.

**redser** · 12-09-2012, 02:11 PM

Do they look like they will crop for much longer? Probably autumn type at this stage.

**zazen999** · 12-09-2012, 06:25 PM

Technically - it doesn't really matter.

Just cut back each cane that's fruited once you have picked all the fruit off.

And move them in about November. Once all the fruit is gone completely.

This year [which is bonkers] I have got canes fruiting that have been fruiting since the start of the rasp season, not just the same variety - the same canes!

**vikkib** · 13-09-2012, 05:34 AM

Thanks ever so much everyone!

I shall cut back as I go and shift 'em once they've completely finished...

... now to clear the ground where they will be going!

**redser** · 13-09-2012, 08:58 AM

I read that you should leave one cane about 10 inches or so on each rootball when moving them. Just so it's easy to judge the level they were at in the soil and plant them correctly. Also gives you something to hold on to when you bed the roots in. But then early next year cut this to the ground or you will get shoots coming off it, you really want new shoots coming up through the soil. Just what I read

**vikkib** · 13-09-2012, 10:47 AM

Originally posted by redser View Post

I read that you should leave one cane about 10 inches or so on each rootball when moving them. Just so it's easy to judge the level they were at in the soil and plant them correctly. Also gives you something to hold on to when you bed the roots in. But then early next year cut this to the ground or you will get shoots coming off it, you really want new shoots coming up through the soil. Just what I read

Oooh, that sounds like a very handy tip! Thank you very much redser.

**Dead Dogs** · 13-09-2012, 11:25 AM

My understanding of Raspberrys is that for the summer type you leave this years new canes to over winter and flower/fruit next. Cutting out all of last years canes.
Whereas for the Autumn type you cut out all canes. The new growth next year will bare the flower/fruit.

Well that's what I did with my canes some years ago. I found the the autumn type cropped better than the summer and they were a lot easier to maintain.

**BUFFS** · 13-09-2012, 12:39 PM

i think that by the sound of it vikkib,that you have autumn rasps that have not been trimmed after fruiting,i leave half of my rasps,opposite ends,at shoulder height each year,so they then fruit from the start of july til start of sept,just as the trimmed half start to fruit,so we end up with about 3 months fruiting,and even in the weather of this so called summer,we have had a glut,most gone into the freezer to use when the shop prices are sky high..

**planetologist** · 17-09-2012, 04:32 PM

If you want to transplant them, pruning them after they finish cropping sounds like good advice, but in other years if you have autumn raspberries I would say don't prune because they will fruit again. I only have autumn ones, and the canes that are fruiting now are green and have a single green cane that goes from the ground to the fruiting bunches. I leave these. They turn brown over winter, and next year they will make side shoots and fruit again on those in summer, so that by fruiting time they are brown canes with green side shoots that have fruiting bunches on them. After those finish (maybe in late July?) I prune them. While this is all happening the green autumn fruiting canes are growing from the ground as well, so it's a little bit crowded in July but in the last 4 years I've had no problems with disease. I've always had a gap between the raspberries on last year's canes and the ones that are fruiting now (since 3 weeks?) on this year's canes.

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