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  • #1

    Tomato disease identify + action?

    So, I’m new to tomatoes.

    First off some info on the tomatoes plots.

    Plot 1 is the green house, soil is a clay topsoil from an external place full of nettle seeds and mixed with some really cheap B&Q compost a foot deep perhaps? Below that is the garden clay possibly with a little cement.
    Plot 2 is outside, along a wall south facing. I’ve had problems in this plot already, my garlic got white rot (mostly pulled and burnt, everything sterilizing including path.) Previously the plot had been completely overrun with amongst other things, annoying bulbs, (the ones that look like a bit like bluebells but aren’t!) I have a feeling it’s been unchanged since 1930, left wild for a good 5 years and is thus riddled with all sorts of bad ***.

    Starting in plot 2, spots. This was kind of a ‘uuh good luck tomatoes!’ plot as I have a mix of tomatoes that may not all be suited to the UKs wonderful climate. But I added garlic to keep the slugs off and probably basil(?) that helps them fruit or fruit more or something!
    http://i.imgur.com/Gn2NXmp.jpg
    I did a little digging and came up with 2 possible answers, but I’d rather here it from you guys as to what it is and the best course of action to take. This is infecting 1-2 tomatoes plants ‘lightly’. Have not noted any ‘target like’ patterning.
    However that’s just my eye, older leaves are unhappy and may have had spots to. I looked up unhappy leaves and it to me looked like it was just lacking in potassium or magnesium. From the images I’ve seen I’m siding to magnesium for the fact the leaves seem to curl and such, which is something I am also seeing. But I’m also seeing things that don’t match the descriptions I got, such as the dark blueish-purple between the veins, or just on the tips of the leaves and some leaves dying. The far right image of below, one of the worst, the stem of the leaves has also discoloured somewhat though this one is alone so far. I can’t help think that it’s something more.
    http://i.imgur.com/fazkltN.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/3neaKD2.jpg

    Plot 1, the one I hope is nothing to drastic, in the green house, tomatoes almost all have this forming on them. What is it will it make them inedible? And how to deal with?
    http://i.imgur.com/E8oL3CV.jpg
    Tags: None
  • #2
    I dont think that is too much to worry about

    Id take off all the old leave and branches at the bottom that look yellow, they have done their job.

    Give the tomatoes a weekly feed, one that contains trace elements as well.

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    • #3
      the bottom one looks like Ghost spot.

      Comment

      • #4
        Thanks that’s sounds a lot less drastic than I imagined, given my past experiences with that bed I thought I’d lost the lot!
        Annoyingly on my ‘budget’ I can’t really afford to buy feed and such everything I’m doing is scraping the barrel kind of thing lol!

        As to ghost spot, having had a little read I’m seeing that as ‘the green house is to humid’.. If I’m removing old leaves like outside hopefully it will help ventilation. So would removing some of the mid-level healthy leaves also aid this and encourage a little more fruit growth? Or would it be better to leave them and try to control breathing room in another way? (I think I have too many plants for the space.)

        Or, dare I ask is ghost spot likely to destroy the fruit anyway?

        My primary goal is to manage to get seeds for the next year as two types I can’t get again.

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        • #5
          Shumba you don't have to buy feed, you can make it.
          Make nettle tea, this takes about 10 days to 2 weeks and will give a great boost to green growth.
          Can you find any wild comfry growing near you? Make comfry tea, this will boost the fruiting and flowering. I use both diluted and add a bit of urine (nitrogon) for good measure, the plants are strong as could be with stems as thick as my thumb.
          If you just make compost or manure tea it will help, but nettles have nitrogon, potasium,iron, copper, zinc, magnesium, and calcium although too much iron is not recommended for tomatoes.
          Cumfry has more phosphoros as well as the general elements and so aids that fruiting process.

          Comment

          • #6
            Ive used this growmore liquid feed before with good results, costs £2

            Wilko Liquid Growmore Plant Feed 1L at wilko.com

            Comment

            • #7
              I removed the lower leaves this morning and left the green house door open all day, the air dose seem a bit fresher in there now low down so hopefully all is good.

              Originally posted by ESBkevin View Post
              Shumba you don't have to buy feed, you can make it.
              Make nettle tea, this takes about 10 days to 2 weeks and will give a great boost to green growth.
              Can you find any wild comfry growing near you? Make comfry tea, this will boost the fruiting and flowering. I use both diluted and add a bit of urine (nitrogon) for good measure, the plants are strong as could be with stems as thick as my thumb.
              If you just make compost or manure tea it will help, but nettles have nitrogon, potasium,iron, copper, zinc, magnesium, and calcium although too much iron is not recommended for tomatoes.
              Cumfry has more phosphoros as well as the general elements and so aids that fruiting process.
              Ooo.. iv heard about nettle tea being good for flowery things just didn’t know what, but comfry is new .. Almost an excuse to grow the stuff now lol!
              I have nettles planted in this year waiting for them to get established before I start harvesting them. Ironically only 2 seeds grew so I managed to find some from root (highly disturbed how hard it was to find nettles growing in this area!!) I do have plenty of tips I can use, picked em for drinking myself lol!
              The closest I have to comfry is borage.. probably not the same.
              As to urine, I’m actually doing that one tho not on the tomatoes. The onions kale and chards seem happy tho, they also got a megger boost from the clover that was there previously!

              I do however find a lot of contradicting info online about urine. So interested on your spin.
              Some places say just dilute, 1 in 4-5 water, others say thats bad and that you need to tip it over something with high carbon content such as hay or straw, then leave it a month before use. And many places simply say it takes a month before urine is ready to use without any details. So a little mixed on that one. Turds apparently take 6 months but the wind is blowing in the wrong direction for that! :3
              The only thing that concerns me with urine is it may contain a bit of salt, that will inevitably over time effect the PH of the soil.

              Either way, you have given me a craving for nettle tea now and I’ll probably dig up comfry seeds on ebay tonight! Think you can eat comfry.. not sure.. would be a bonus if I can keep the leaf miners out of it!

              So thank! I’ll certainly have a sip at this recipe.

              Comment

              • #8
                Nice one Shumba,

                where are you that nettles don't grow?!!
                With comfry you need to be aware that it is difficult to get rid of once you have it, for that reason you need 'russian' or bocking 14 variety because it is hydrid and will not self seed. The beauty is the roots go very deep and harvest minerals back to the surface/leaves. Bees and other pollinators love it and it you don't make the tea you can just chop it as a mulch or into your compost to regain the nutrients. Just remember that wherever you put it, that's where it will be for a very long time. It does take a few months or a season to establish itself properly, then you have enough - trust me.
                Urine is very rich in nitrogon which is used by things that compost to rot down amoung other things. So using it as a compost accelerator is a good use but go easy, it can get a bit wiffy if you over do it ....apparantly ;-)
                It's best to apply dilute urine to the soil rather than the root/stem area so that the roots don't burn (think dog wee on your lawn and the brown/burnt patches).
                All in all nature provides everything growing needs, the trick is managing it all.

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