Ripening Tomatoes

**taff** · 08-08-2010, 02:31 PM

I've noticed that any tomatoes I have missed on the plants with blossom end rot [the black bits on the bottom, due to irregular watering, but having said that, the shape of plum tomatoes makes them more susceptibe apparently], are ripening faster, smaller than any with no blossom end rot.

**rustylady** · 08-08-2010, 07:25 PM

The black area at the bottom of the fruit is blossom end rot. Loads of info on the Vine about it - caused by lack of calcium and exacerbated by irregular watering. As for the size of your fruit - what variety are you growing? They may be a small plum variety.

**Royster1** · 09-08-2010, 12:00 PM

Originally posted by rustylady View Post

The black area at the bottom of the fruit is blossom end rot. Loads of info on the Vine about it - caused by lack of calcium and exacerbated by irregular watering. As for the size of your fruit - what variety are you growing? They may be a small plum variety.

Sorry I was given the seedlings so I do not know what variety they are
I asked and he says he cant remember
I water a little every day
I'm doing very well with everything else no you good peeps sorted my over feeding Runner Beans

**rustylady** · 09-08-2010, 12:10 PM

Originally posted by Royster1 View Post

Sorry I was given the seedlings so I do not know what variety they are
I asked and he says he cant remember
I water a little every day

Are they growing in pots or in open ground? Either way, it's best to water according to the needs of the plants, not automatically give a little water every day.

**Royster1** · 09-08-2010, 07:32 PM

Originally posted by rustylady View Post

Are they growing in pots or in open ground? Either way, it's best to water according to the needs of the plants, not automatically give a little water every day.

they are growing in pots and the soil looks dry every morning, thats why I water them

**SMT** · 09-08-2010, 09:01 PM

I'm not sure where I read it but I remember somewhere saying that if the medium is allowed to dry out for a period of time (not sure how long) then watered, then the damage has already been done and will show in time in the form of blossom end rot. I've had a real problem with BER with my heavy tomatoes but not the cherries or regular sized tomatoes. Not sure why but I'm trying to make amends by giving it a feed of calcium each week.

**Tomatoking** · 10-08-2010, 07:27 AM

Originally posted by Royster1 View Post

they are growing in pots and the soil looks dry every morning, thats why I water them

Tomatoes grown in containers should never be let to go dry, the compost should always be moist, ie water comes out if you squeeze it in your hand.
The good thing about pots is that they drain well, so at this time of year you should not really get an over watering problem. Also your pots are filling up with root, so there is less reserve.
Blossom end rot is more prominent in peat bags and pots, so daily watering is critical, even on dull days the plant will take up some moisture with all the fruit on it. Maybe water twice a day on hot days.
As previously said, once you have damage it cannot be reversed, but you can prevent future BER. Just get the watering right and all will be ok.

Mr TK

**Two_Sheds** · 10-08-2010, 09:29 AM

My toms are in Morrisons buckets, sat in gravel trays. They still need half a can of water each every day.
I feel there is too much foliage still (that's after taking a third of it off last week), so I'm pulling off the odd large leaf every time I go in the gh.

I've also stopped picking all the ripish fruits off: I'm leaving them on the vine as long as poss to encourage the others.

Trouble is, Sungold splits its skin the moment it's ripe.

Hmmm, what to do? (I'm looking at them now). I think I'll pop out and pick all the fruit off and leave it to ripen in the kitchen. Or maybe just eat them as I pick.

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