Help needed with planning my plot

**crannman** · 12-11-2013, 02:44 PM

i had a good look around at other plots first then had a good think of what i would be growing then split the plot into three 20 by 20 ft plots .take your time dont rush it it will work its self out mine did

**andy_j** · 12-11-2013, 03:59 PM

Get yourself a scale rule and mark out the plot on a bit of A3 paper using the scale of 1:50. Again, using a scale rule @ 1:50, draw the size shed, greenhouse and maybe a fruit or brassica cage etc etc you want and then cut them out. Put them where you want them on the drawing of the plot.

Once you've found the best positions (don't forget to take into account whether the plots faces north or east etc plus prevailing winds etc) think about adding your paths.

Once you're happy with everything, you can then think about where you might want your spuds, carrots, leeks etc etc. Again, think of putting things in areas. Ive put my leeks and parsnips right in the corner as they will be left until the winter so you don't have to worry about them too much.

That's how i did mine. Took an hour and i did several designs but thoroughly enjoyed doing it.

Good luck

Andy

**Mikey** · 12-11-2013, 04:04 PM

I'd check your tenancy Vegboi, generally subletting isn't allowed. Bees themselves aren't generally an issue aslong as your neighbours don't object.

Based on the angle of the sun, I would be putting a shed at the bottom of the plot so that you don't get any shading. It can seem daunting at first, but measure it out and look at what you want to grow and how much of it then use the spacing guides for these. Add on paths even if temporary to get between your rows. Consider some permanent areas like rhubarb, strawberry beds, asparagus, fruit bushes or dwarf/cordon fruit trees.

Think whether at a later date you'd like a greenhouse/polytunnel and where it might go. Look at crop rotation as a 3-5 year cycle and where these would be positioned, then see how much space you have left if any.

Then ask yourself how old is your neighbouring plot holder, and whether you'd be able to take over their plot when they finish as you no longer have anywhere near enough space....

**vegboi** · 12-11-2013, 10:05 PM

Originally posted by Mikey View Post

I'd check your tenancy Vegboi, generally subletting isn't allowed. Bees themselves aren't generally an issue aslong as your neighbours don't object.

Based on the angle of the sun, I would be putting a shed at the bottom of the plot so that you don't get any shading. It can seem daunting at first, but measure it out and look at what you want to grow and how much of it then use the spacing guides for these. Add on paths even if temporary to get between your rows. Consider some permanent areas like rhubarb, strawberry beds, asparagus, fruit bushes or dwarf/cordon fruit trees.

Think whether at a later date you'd like a greenhouse/polytunnel and where it might go. Look at crop rotation as a 3-5 year cycle and where these would be positioned, then see how much space you have left if any.

Then ask yourself how old is your neighbouring plot holder, and whether you'd be able to take over their plot when they finish as you no longer have anywhere near enough space....

Everyone for your advice I have to put shed and greenhouse where the old ones were, I've currently raspberries and rhubarb at the very bottom.

I want to grow everything lol

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**Bill HH** · 12-11-2013, 10:27 PM

Originally posted by Mikey View Post

Then ask yourself how old is your neighbouring plot holder, and whether you'd be able to take over their plot when they finish as you no longer have anywhere near enough space....

Oh the callousness

**Bill HH** · 12-11-2013, 10:34 PM

I wish i could get 10 16x4ft beds in my garden. Dont pack them in too tight, remember the wheel barrow and how plants stick out from beds. you may end up with one less bed or smaller beds but lack of space is a constant annoyance.

**vegboi** · 12-11-2013, 11:12 PM

Does anyone know how to make raised. I didn't think ten raised beds was very big lol I've planted orange pippins tree a Stella cherry Victoria plum and a pear tree , do these need anything doing to them during winter ? If Di what?

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**Bill HH** · 13-11-2013, 07:19 AM

The size and number of your beds is relative, to some its small to others such as me its large.
Making raised beds is easy, there are dozens of how to videos on u tube. my advice is to use the strongest timber as you can afford. Thin flimsy ones will eventualy dissapoint you. On 16ft I would put a piece across the centre too to stop it bulging. I used second hand decking boards some are thicker than others, mine are 34mm. i also make 2 and put one on top of the other to get better depth. drill the boards before screwing to avoid splitting the wood.

**Bigmallly** · 13-11-2013, 07:53 AM

Different materials can be used for raised beds, it's whatever you can lay your hands on......in my case it was scaffold boards.

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**vegboi** · 13-11-2013, 08:14 AM

Originally posted by Bigmallly View Post

Different materials can be used for raised beds, it's whatever you can lay your hands on......in my case it was scaffold boards.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]40707[/ATTACH]

I plan on using scaffolding boards �133 for 33 not sure if that's a good price or not. Nice plot

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**Mikey** · 13-11-2013, 10:35 AM

When I put my raised beds in I measured the distance between the front of my knee and the tip of my foot when I was kneeling down, and made sure the gaps between the beds were not less than this. I like to get on my knees and hand weed from time to time.

**Bigmallly** · 13-11-2013, 10:53 AM

Originally posted by vegboi View Post

I plan on using scaffolding boards �133 for 33 not sure if that's a good price or not. Nice plot

Sounds a good price, I think the going rate for 13' boards are �5-�6 per board. They come in different lengths so best checking.

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