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  • Growing Pot Leeks

    Nick,

    The subject of growing successful pot or even mammoth blanch leeks is a highly secret and covert process. Sums of money will often be charged by seed catalogues to learn the myths and practices of said subject. Please do not reveal the following in case my membership to the magic pot leek circle is cancelled!
    I apologise in advance as this will be a mammoth ( ) article in itself and some bits will slip into technical land but am sure you will keep up. You do not have to follow this as gospel to achieve good results….just use it as a guide to the time you have available.

    Firstly I do not grow my pot leeks for show, primarily it’s for pride….if I think they are good enough I may enter them at a show but that is secondary.
    Just to clear up some terms, there are three kinds of leek in this field; Pot leeks having a blanched area no longer than 15cm (6in) – with the largest possible circumference, Blanch leeks which comprise Intermediate leeks having a blanched length of between 15 and 35cm (6 – 14in) and Long leeks having a blanched length from 23cm (9in) upwards, sometimes exceeding 60cm (24in).

    All leeks can be raised vegetatively by propagating pods (sometimes known as bulbils or pips). Alternatively, they can be grown from plants or seeds. These items are not always easy to obtain, if exhibition quality results are required. They may be purchased from nurseries and there are specialist growers who advertise in the gardening journals, yellow free ad paper etc. Best plants start by using best seed…..you may not want to exhibit your results but you may want the results to be of exhibition quality. In the North East it is common to see plants offered in Feb for about £1 each.

    Starting from pods:
    I will start here because this is my method.
    The advantage of raising from pods is that the offspring will have the same characteristics as the parent and, if this were a prize-winner, the pods would be potential prize-winners also. Pods are the delicate swellings which form on the head of the plant after flowering. Pot leek pods resemble very small dried tulip bulbs, but some varieties produce pods, each with a single live leaf, which looks like a blade of grass. These are known as ‘grass’ leeks.
    The pods of Blanch leeks resemble miniature plants. Separate the pods from the head, being careful not to damage them, and examine each one for signs of disease. Any that show a reddish/brown mark at the base must be discarded. They may grow and appear healthy but when the leeks start to mature the flags (leaves) begin to decay and sometimes the whole plant collapses.
    Start Blanch leeks off in December and Pot leeks in January in a temperature of about 12-15°C (55-60°F) in a greenhouse, on a warm windowsill or in a heated propagator.
    A proprietary, peat-based compost or loam based John Innes No. 1 may be used. Plant individually into 7cm (3in) pots. Blanch leek pods should be planted leaving half their length above the surface, but Pot leek pods should be pushed gently into the surface of the damp compost and not buried, whilst ‘grass’ leeks should be planted about 6mm (1/4 in) deep. Blanch and ‘grass’ leeks will benefit from a twice weekly foliar feed with half strength plant foodsolution, i.e. half a level teaspoonful in 9 litres (2 gals) of water, as this will help to keep them fresh and encourage root development.
    Always avoid foliar feeding in direct sunlight as a liquid of any kind on the foliage can cause scorch. Keep the compost moist with water at all times.

    Starting from seed:
    Sow in January using the same compost recommended above. Use a large tray so that the seeds can be well spaced. Avoid over watering. It is worthwhile using a seed dressing, if available, to ensure good germination. Keep at a temperature of about 12-
    15°C (55-60°F) in a greenhouse, on a warn windowsill or in a heated propagator, until the seedlings are large enough to handle, then transfer then singularly into 7cm (3in) pots treating them as for Pods.
    As a comparison my strain of pot leek will stand for 13 months without bolting to seed, so they get planted in the Autumn…..you wont find that recommended in a seed catalogue!

    Greenhouse culture:
    Keep the temperature at about 12°C (55-60°F). After about three weeks, examine the root formations and those that show abundance should be moved into 15cm (6in) pots. If John Innes compost is used, then this should be No.3. Feeding is very important from about two to three weeks after potting. Root feed with full strength plant food i.e. a level teaspoonful in 9 litres (2 gals) of water every ten days and foliar feed with half strength solution at least one a week.
    Many Pot leeks need to be ‘drawn’ to their required length of blanch and ‘collars’ are slipped over the plants from February onwards to force their growth upwards. The collars, plastic or cardboard tubes about 10cm (4in) long, should not be tight but should exclude as much light as possible. Some varieties need little encouragement to grow to the required length and ‘earthing up’ when they are transferred into the garden will blanch them sufficiently. When buying Pot leek plants, always ask if they need ‘drawing’ or not. By the end of March, the plants are transferred into 22cm (9in) pots.
    Pot leeks remain in the warmth of the greenhouse, whilst Blanch leeks are transferred to cold frames to be planted out in April.

    Soil preparation:
    Blanch leeks are planted out in open ground in mid to late April. Pot leeks are removed from the greenhouse to the open ground at the end of May in the South, the first week in June for me. From now on they are at the mercy of the weather until Show time, usually September. The soil should be well prepared. If it is well drained, friable and not too stony it may only be necessary to add well-rotted farmyard manure, garden compost or, failing that, spent mushroom compost. A full barrow load per square metre (about 1 sq yd) is essential for exhibition plants. Where the soil is poor because of clay, stones or poor drainage, a prepared bed, called a ‘trench’ is required.

    Preparation of a trench:
    A trench 5 metres x 1 metre (about 16ft x 4ft) will accommodate 22 leeks. It should be mounded up to 45cm (18 in) above the normal soil level. The sides will need supporting with corrugated steel, breezeblocks or bricks. Timber is not recommended as it harbours pests and diseases. The trench should be prepared to an overall depth of
    1 metre (about 3ft) as follows: The bottom 15cm (6in) should be weathered ashes, or a similar aggregate, covered with a 15cm (6in) layer of straw, from broken up bales, to prevent the ashes becoming clogged with soil making drainage ineffective. A 45cm
    (18in) layer of farmyard manure or garden compost is then added and the trench brought to its full height with good, friable soil. Each year, more manure or compost is added, but the bottom of the trench is never disturbed. Good initial preparation is, therefore essential.

    Planting outdoors:
    Pot leeks should have 7 to 10 days hardening off in a cold frame before planting out. About a week before planting, rake 50g plant food powder per sq metre (per 1 sq yd) into the surface of the soil. Pot leeks are planted with soil up to their lowest flag whilst Blanch leeks are planted so that their bases are about 10cm (4in) below the surface. Make a suitable hole for each plant and sprinkle in a little plant foodpowder to encourage the roots to penetrate the soil. From now on the soil is never allowed to dry out. Root and foliar feed once a week with full strength plant foodfrom the end of June onwards. Regular feeds are essential for actively growing leeks; the high potash content of plant foodkeeps the plants robust.

    Lengthening blanch leeks:
    When the plants show about 20cm (8in) above the surface, place a cardboard tube about 10cm (about 4in) long and 25mm (1in) in diameter over each one. This is replaced with a standard land drain tile 30cm x 9cm (12in x 31/2in) when the plants reach 45cm (about 18 in) in length. By improvising with tubes of various sizes, the length of the leek can be slowly increased. Never cover the uppermost third of the plant; this only weakens the growth.

    If when September comes you want to show your leeks to the world, or the village show at least here is my only tip - Lift the selected leeks the evening before the Show and wash them down with a hosepipe from the roots to the flags. Stand the plants in a bucket containing sufficient full strength plant foodsolution to cover the roots and you will find they are a little larger the following day!

    BE WARNED: This type of vegetable growing can take over your life….you may not be the same person again!!

    I think I deserve a nice cold beer now.
    Geordie

    Te audire non possum. Musa sapientum fixa est in aure



  • #2
    in awe

    all I can say is ... wow

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    • #3
      Thanks Geordie. I have asked many people how to get a longer blanche on my leeks and nobody will tell me!! Don't the cardboard tubes disintegrate in the bad weather? Presumably I keep replacing them? With the drain pipes how far into the ground do you put them and do you water outside the pipe or inside?
      [

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      • #4
        Spot on Geordie !! Get yourself two cold beers Not many of the folks round here grow Pot leeks, they all grow Welsh seedling Blanch leeks so I wondered if the growing was different. I have to say a couple of months ago I went to see one of the local NVS guys and he gave me a blanch leek that wasn't up to show standard but was excellent eating. It has to have been the sweetest leek we've ever had. Mind you as only my wife and I eat leeks it took us two days to get through it as it was ablot 4ft long from root plate to the ends of the flags and about 2ft of blanch

        I don't intend growing for show (bit like my chrysanths & dahlia's) but if I get them good enough it's a bonus and we've had a local flower and veg show start up again after several years, so I thought I'd try and support it if possible.

        I've put a link to our Lottie site that will let yuo go to the photo's of it if any one is interested. and it was good fun and a lot of local lottie folk entered and won prizes against some proper veg showers so it's well worth having a go if you have one locally.

        Thanks agian for the excellent advice, what would we do without you.

        www.mancetter.org.uk/cashow05.htm
        Last edited by nick the grief; 26-01-2006, 06:18 PM.
        ntg
        Never be afraid to try something new.
        Remember that a lone amateur built the Ark.
        A large group of professionals built the Titanic
        ==================================================

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        • #5
          Lesley,

          I chose to use a cardboard tube because they would be most commonly available to people. I agree they will rot, but hopefully not before the leek is the right size to use the drain pipe. If it rots before then, then you would be right to replace them.
          How deep you push the drains depends really on how windy your site is.....deep enough so they dont blow over and damage the leek. As for watering I use a hosepipe to water the bed and then add a little inside the drain.....depends on how often you are able to water, little and often would be ideal.
          Geordie

          Te audire non possum. Musa sapientum fixa est in aure


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          • #6
            Thanks Geordie the site is very open and windy. I am just wondering if I put the drain pipes in too deep will the pipe stop the roots getting to the water? I would imagine that too much water inside the pipe - we are on clay soil - would mean the leek stem sitting in water. We water every other day in the early evening.
            [

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            • #7
              Geordie,

              Hope you don't mind I cut and past the pearls of wizdom into word so I can read it to death offline.

              Jaxom,

              I have to say you are doing a sterlig effort pasting the contents of Geordie's posting like that. Maybe Geordie should be given his own slot in GYO then all these poor people who don't have the internet can benefit like us
              ntg
              Never be afraid to try something new.
              Remember that a lone amateur built the Ark.
              A large group of professionals built the Titanic
              ==================================================

              Comment


              • #8
                Geordie,

                I've been reading up (I can hear the OH NO from here). The growing from Pip/Grass - The stock leek that you planted in Say september this year would they give you the the pips aroung November? or do you plant them say August 2006 and get them next January 2008

                I think what I mean is 12 months time like seeding onions. Does that make sens to you - I don't think it does to me

                Confused of Warwickshire
                Last edited by nick the grief; 10-02-2006, 07:44 PM.
                ntg
                Never be afraid to try something new.
                Remember that a lone amateur built the Ark.
                A large group of professionals built the Titanic
                ==================================================

                Comment


                • #9
                  NTG. What can I say?
                  Geordie deserves all the praise. He is the one who wrote the "how to" subjects. All I do is use the cut and paste buttons.
                  I knew that I didn't want Geordie’s advice to disappear as time on the vine moved on. I believe his advice will be just as important to have in a few years time.
                  Other people have also made great contributions to the helpful advice on the Vine. I am sure that if another person saw a reason to act as a custodian/keeper for another "Grape" or specialist subject then we would all benefit. For example, over the years I am sure that a number of homemade or organic insect solutions and recipes will be posted. Someone could compile all these together in one thread.
                  Jax

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                  • #10
                    NTG,

                    The pips I use are, for example, harvested in October / November 2004, planted in September 2005, producing pot leeks from September 2006.

                    Hope this clears it up.
                    Geordie

                    Te audire non possum. Musa sapientum fixa est in aure


                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thanks Geordie,

                      I think I've got that now.
                      ntg
                      Never be afraid to try something new.
                      Remember that a lone amateur built the Ark.
                      A large group of professionals built the Titanic
                      ==================================================

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hi! Geordie, Just found this post. I am beginner to pot leek growing but reckon I have all the qualifications because mother was from Birtley! Wi I man. (Excuse spelling) Thanks anyway for great article.
                        You are what you eat, so be sure to eat healthily

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by grannyv View Post
                          Hi! Geordie, Just found this post. I am beginner to pot leek growing but reckon I have all the qualifications because mother was from Birtley! Wi I man. (Excuse spelling) Thanks anyway for great article.
                          Geordie certainly knows his stuff!

                          And it's wey!
                          My Majesty made for him a garden anew in order
                          to present to him vegetables and all beautiful flowers.- Offerings of Thutmose III to Amon-Ra (1500 BCE)

                          Diversify & prosper


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