|
|||||||
| Grow Your Own Sponsor | |
| Vegging Out Hints, tips and queries about your vegetable crop |
|
Welcome to the The Grapevine forums. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our FREE community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, create your own online journal with our blogs, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us. |
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|||
|
Chit them in a seed tray between damp kitchen roll, placed in a plastic carrier-bag for no-fail germination, then bring them on in pots in the greenhouse and plant out as late as possible to avoid frosts. (I also chit my runner beans before I direct sow them)
|
|
||||
|
Start them off in April in root trainers in a cold greenhouse. Pretty reliable at germination on the whole so long as they're kept damp and not too cold. Plant them out around a wigwam after the frosts have finished and train them around the canes (I only tend to grow the tall ones as they produce more beans for the area used). Biggest possible problem I've found is birds pecking the young stems. I find that a few extra short canes across the bed works to deter them although there is still the risk of slugs!
__________________
Some of us live in the past, always talking about back then. Some of us live in the future, always planning what we are going to do. And, then there are those, who neither look behind or ahead, but just enjoy the moment of right now. Which one are you and is it how you want to be? |
|
||||
|
I always soak the beans overnight before planting. Dried beans and peas take up a lots of water which they have to soak up from the compost otherwise. I like to sow them in modules or seed trays and plant them in the garden when they are big enough to withstand slug attack. Wherever you live, make sure they don't go out before the frosts are over. You can put them directly in the garden or allotment soil but do this in May. However, I find slug losses make this not worthwhile. This applied equally to climbing and bush beans, though as Alison says, you get a bigger crop from a small area with the climbing beans. They are also MUCH easier on your back which it comes to picking. Don't forget to try some varieties for drying. It's nice to use your own beans in a chilli or winter casserole.
__________________
Some days you're the statue, some days you're the pigeon! vegheaven.blogspot.com Updated July 7th 2008 |
|
||||
|
No idea what variety mine were (I'll have a look when I get home), but they were dwarf bush type.
I planted mine straight into a tray full of compost around May time, kept them in the mini-greenhouse until June and then planted them out. Covered them with net and they cropped away quite happily until the first frost. Didn't really do anything special, just watered and picked. As Flum said, it does make for back-breaking work when harvesting them, but I'm sure they'd be fine for the vertically challenged gardener.
__________________
A simple dude trying to grow veg. http://haywayne.blogspot.com/ - UPDATED - 11th June http://www.sloganizer.net/en/style2,HeyWayne.png |
|
||||
|
You've got further down to bend than the rest of us lad!
__________________
Some days you're the statue, some days you're the pigeon! vegheaven.blogspot.com Updated July 7th 2008 |
|
||||
|
Another thing is that French beans are very easy to save seeds from as they don't seem to cross fertilise much. Simply don't pick some of the pods at the end of the season and let them dry out before harvesting the seeds and saving for next year. You do need to make sure they're properly dry though otherwise they will go mouldy.
__________________
Some of us live in the past, always talking about back then. Some of us live in the future, always planning what we are going to do. And, then there are those, who neither look behind or ahead, but just enjoy the moment of right now. Which one are you and is it how you want to be? |
|
||||
|
Quote:
![]() I didnt use much in the way of support on my dwarfs last year and found some of them trailed on the ground, perfect slug food!! Even with the smaller varieties, use some kind of support to keep them away from the soil.
__________________
Life may not be the party we hoped for but since we're here we might as well dance
|
|
||||
|
I recommend always germinating and early growing in either root trainers or some kitchen roll holders (loo roll holders are a bit short) and then they can grow quite happily until the weather is perfect for transplanting. This is particularly important if you live in northern climes as a week can make a great difference and it is infuriating if you require to transplant as the roots are coming out of the bottom of your module or loo roll holder!
__________________
~ Aerodynamically the bumblebee shouldn't be able to fly, but the bumblebee doesn't know that so it goes on flying anyway. ~ Mary Kay Ash |
|
||||
|
I always start mine off in loo rolls. Have tried sowing direct, but lose too many (to slugs, mice, weather, etc) I have just about given up on dwarf beans, too. They tend to get eaten by anything except me. Best ones last year were Blue Lake, germinated in loo rolls in the cold greenhouse and planted onto the lottie mid-May - grown up wigwams of canes. No problems with slugs, but watch out for snail damage - those little so and so's climb!!!
|
|
|||
|
For me it has to be the Cobra.
Excellent taste and texture, good croppers and very forgiving to look after. Start off germinating on a damp cloth, transfer to 3" pots when big enough and grow on in the greenhouse until approx 12" tall. Transplant out to a bed or a growbag, water and then enjoy lots of beans. Tend to pick at about 5" for best flavour although they will grow to about 7". If possible pick just before cooking, although they will keep well in a fridge. Don't leave them on the plant too long or production will slow. Continued cropping quite late on in the year in 2007. Had 8 plants in a standard growbag. next to a south facing fence with netting up against it, nip the tips out when they reach 5 - 6 feet high. Works for me !
__________________
My Blog is here.../ |
|
||||
|
I'm not that keen on Cobra, they're OK but nothing special to me (each to their own though, that's the beauty of so many types). Last year I grew Blauhide (sp?) which looked lovely in the flower border as they're a purple variety.
__________________
Some of us live in the past, always talking about back then. Some of us live in the future, always planning what we are going to do. And, then there are those, who neither look behind or ahead, but just enjoy the moment of right now. Which one are you and is it how you want to be? |
|
||||
|
I think I grew Nomad last year (can't find the packet). Seemed easy enough, and tasted decent enough. I simply put a short piece of bamboo next to each plant and they seemed to do just fine.
__________________
A simple dude trying to grow veg. http://haywayne.blogspot.com/ - UPDATED - 11th June http://www.sloganizer.net/en/style2,HeyWayne.png |
|
||||
|
I much prefer Frenchies to Runners - I eat a few fresh, but mostly save them for drying. As a veggie I get through a lotta beans!
My favourites for looks (dried) are: tiger, yin yang, barlotta, cherokee and ruth bible. My favourites for eating fresh: black croatian, barlotta, blue lake. The easiest to grow: yin yang, canadian wonder, black croatian, cherokee. Wouldn't bother again with: sungold - though the slugs love them! Barlotta and Tiger take a slightly longer growing season than most to get to the dried stage. I am plagued by slugs, so have given up sowing direct. Even with a plastic cloche, because the beggars climb right inside it. I have trialled various support systems for the climbers, and find a 4 pole wigwam is by far the strongest design. Bean netting is too flappy and just gets pulled down by the weight of the plants. I always plant an upturned coke bottle by the bean, to water directly into the roots, and I mulch with well-rotted compost. Oh, and I put a little shredded paper in the planting hole to act as a sponge too, to hang onto water. They're thirsty plants!
__________________
~ What do I think of Western civilisation? I think it would be a very good idea ~ Gandhi |











