Desiree potatoes

**bluemoon** · 20-11-2008, 12:23 PM

We grew them for the first time this year and they didn't suffer slug damage. I don't know if that's because they are resistant or because I'd done so well in clearing my plot of slugs

If you have a huge problem with those little, underground slugs try filling a net bag (the sort supermarket fruit comes in work well) with pebbles and gravel; bury it for a couple of days then dig it up and you'll find it's full of the little blighters. Remove them then bury it again elsewhere. It's a complete pain, but if you keep up the assault it does keep the numbers down. Just do it in the beds where the vulnerable crops are going to go as clearing an entire allotment like this would be impossible. You can have more than one bag on the go too, obviously.

**coreopsis** · 20-11-2008, 12:29 PM

How can you clear your plot???These greedy buggers are everywhere-when I go outside in the evening they are on the plants,rockery,even on the house walls,outer windowsills,porch...

**snuffer** · 20-11-2008, 12:34 PM

Desiree

Hiya, coreopsis. I have grown Desiree main crop potatoes every year for at least the last seven years. I always buy fresh seed potatoes,that way you can be fairly sure that they will be desease free.

I put them to chit towards the end of January and plant them out at the end of March. I usually harvest mid to late August. You being further north will probably have to adjust these timings. Potato foliage is very susceptable to frost damage. They are good performers on the plot and always give a bumper crop.

Never had much problem with slug damage but can't say if that is because of resistance or due to there being fewer slugs.

I am led to believe that their only drawback is their susceptability to viral deseases. That said, last year mine were attacked by the dreaded blight and even though I had to lift them early I still got a good crop.

Hope that is of some help.

**snuffer** · 20-11-2008, 12:41 PM

Originally posted by coreopsis View Post

How can you clear your plot???These greedy buggers are everywhere-when I go outside in the evening they are on the plants,rockery,even on the house walls,outer windowsills,porch...

Try Nemaslug, a parasitic nematode that is applied to the soil through a watering can. Need to wait until it warms up next year though, they don't like the cold.

Google should help finding a supplier. It is usually bought mail order.

**coreopsis** · 20-11-2008, 12:41 PM

Thank you snuffer for the info

As for the slugsmaybe I should plant parsley around?

**SlugLobber** · 20-11-2008, 01:41 PM

I grew Desiree this year and suffered no slug damage either. Towards the end I did find a couple nibbled by wood lice, but I just cut out the holey bits. Absolutely fantastic. So much so I've kept the seeds of the fruits and also a couple of small spuds to chit in the spring.

I have your slug problem, Coreopsis (hence my login!). I used Nemaslug AND the nasty pellets this year and it barely touched the population. Worth bearing in mind, though, that metaldehyde is not effective below (I think) 4 degrees C.

**SlugLobber** · 20-11-2008, 01:43 PM

Forgot to say, I find coffee grounds more effective than anything else. Am taking home all of work's grounds, so should make a better head start next year!

**Two_Sheds** · 20-11-2008, 04:31 PM

Originally posted by coreopsis View Post

I'd like to ask some of you who has grown them if they are slug resistant(plenty of little and big b*****ds here)

The slugs that you can see above ground aren't the ones that attack spuds... but they will eat almost everything else.

Spud slugs live underground - keeled slugs.

Limit slug damage by lifting potatoes once the tubers have matured.

Some potato cultivars, such as 'Pentland Dell', 'Wilja', 'Charlotte', 'Golden Wonder', 'Estima', 'Sante' and 'Pentland Ivory' are less susceptible but none is fully resistant.

Soil-dwelling slugs can be controlled by using the pathogenic nematode, Phasmarhabditis hermaphrodita, which is available by mail order from suppliers of biological controls. It should be applied in the evening to moist soil after the potatoes have begun growth but before the top growth is too dense to allow access between the rows. Royal Horticultural Society - Gardening Advice: Potato Problems

Really, you should just plant some and see how you get on.

**Snadger** · 20-11-2008, 05:38 PM

Desiree maincrop is one of the three types of spuds I ALWAYS grow.

Kestrel is slug resistant and I will grow that as well as as a second early.

First earlies aren't usually in the ground long enough to get attacked but I grow Duke of York which is in Desiree's lineage methinks.

So Duke of York is Desiree's Grandad if memory serves me right!

**BrideXIII** · 20-11-2008, 05:43 PM

I still dont get this 1st early, 2nd early maincrop thing?

when do you plant which ( obvious really but months would help) and when do you harvest them?
I know this sounds daft, but they dont come with instructions like seed packets do

and i really want to try at least a few potatoes next year.

**coreopsis** · 20-11-2008, 05:46 PM

Thank you all for your answers.
I visited the potato website and Desiree is somewhere in the middle between waxy and floury.I got some Charlotte tatties from my M-I-L but I didn't like them too much(they were alright but nothing special).So my guess is not to grow waxy ones.OH is a fussy eater and even if I make a salad I always end up eating it myself.

**Demeter** · 20-11-2008, 08:59 PM

Originally posted by BrideXIII View Post

I still dont get this 1st early, 2nd early maincrop thing?

when do you plant which ( obvious really but months would help) and when do you harvest them?
I know this sounds daft, but they dont come with instructions like seed packets do

and i really want to try at least a few potatoes next year.

The names 1st early, second early, early maincrop, late maincrop are to do with how long the spuds are in the ground before they are ready. 1st earlies are say 10-14 weeks, 2nd earlies a bit longer and so on.

Depending on the weather/location, you tend to plant everything in March or April I believe. The idea is that all serious danger of frost shoudl be past before the foliage appears (at least 2 weeks and often longer after planting - think mine took 4-5 weeks this year). Your best bet is to get some seed spuds when they become avaialble and otherwise wait until next spring at which point the vine will be full of potato threads

Above all - don't panic - spuds are easy!

**Snadger** · 20-11-2008, 09:02 PM

Originally posted by Demeter View Post

The names 1st early, second early, early maincrop, late maincrop are to do with how long the spuds are in the ground before they are ready. 1st earlies are say 10-14 weeks, 2nd earlies a bit longer and so on.

Depending on the weather/location, you tend to plant everything in March or April I believe. The idea is that all serious danger of frost shoudl be past before the foliage appears (at least 2 weeks and often longer after planting - think mine took 4-5 weeks this year). Your best bet is to get some seed spuds and then wait until next spring at which point the vine will be full of potato threads

Wot Demeter said!

**BrideXIII** · 20-11-2008, 09:02 PM

Originally posted by Demeter View Post

The names 1st early, second early, early maincrop, late maincrop are to do with how long the spuds are in the ground before they are ready. 1st earlies are say 10-14 weeks, 2nd earlies a bit longer and so on.

Depending on the weather, you tend to plant everything in March or April I believe. Your best bet is to get some seed spuds and then wait until next spring at which point the vine will be full of potato threads

Two Sheds kindly sorted me out via PM, bless, managed to get me down to 3 simple varieties which i just bung in when everyone says so and harvest when ready

much less confused now.

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