Chinese cabbage

**lukens** · 25-07-2012, 10:45 AM

(based on what I've read) you probably only need the 30cm spacing if you want them to head up, if you just want CCA salad leaves, then smaller spacing should be fine, and later planting should be fine, too.

What I'm doing with oriental brassicas is planting at 10cm spacing in a 30cm square and cutting the outer ones when small for CCA salad leaves, then clearing them when the one in the centre needs the full space to get bigger.

If you know the type and/or variety I can check my Oriental Vegetables book for you later, to see what it says on spacing and planting times. The book also recommends starting most of the oriental brassicas in modules then transplanting, but I'll check if cabbages are an exception.

**cazp** · 25-07-2012, 11:42 AM

Thanks Lukens. Like the idea of planting smaller spacing and leaving one cabbage to get bigger. That is what I will do. The type I have is Hilton.

I've discovered since my original post that transplanting chinese cabbages could cause them to go in to shock and bolt, so i will sow direct in next couple of weeks.

**lukens** · 25-07-2012, 11:57 AM

Yeah, lots of things seem to cause oriental brassicas to bolt, and I'm not sure this year's weather is a help. I've been sowing all of mine in small coir pots to transplant pot-and-all, in the hope that this will reduce any effect of transplanting. I'm avoiding direct sowing the seeds as my brassicas have been plagued by root flies, and I've not got round to making mesh covers to protect them all yet, so am growing indoors until they're big enough to collar (or I get round to making mesh covers).

**cazp** · 25-07-2012, 12:27 PM

I read that root flies enter the gap around the base of the plant caused by wind rocking so assumed small seedlings would be ok until big enough for collars? maybe I should reconsider that idea.

It's not just root flies though. I've observed two cabbage white buttterfies flying around the mesh over my brassicas on and off all day today, looking for any little opening to get though - I am amazed at their persistence (never took much notice of them before as have never grown brassicas before this year).

**lukens** · 25-07-2012, 01:12 PM

I lost all 25 of my first turnip seedlings to root fly when they were still tiny, as well as several other brassica seedlings. Others also had root fly, but I seemed to manage to pick enough hot them off for the plants to survive. I've also been dosing the ground with garlic infused water, in the hope that would help.

I made a mesh cover for a new sowing of turnips, but yesterday spotted two flies had managed to get inside. Not sure if they were root fly (am hoping not).

**lukens** · 25-07-2012, 09:50 PM

I checked my book, and Joy says to sow in situ or start in modules and transplant, with the latter being preferable. Bare root transplants are not recommended.

Oh, and if they do bolt, she says that the flower shoots are very tasty (picked at the bud stage) and will produce over a long period.

**Two_Sheds** · 26-07-2012, 06:37 AM

Chinese veg is more likely to bolt if you plant/sow in hot weather ~ I try to wait until Sept

**lukens** · 26-07-2012, 08:46 AM

Hmm, well I've read it's more likely to bolt if sown in cool weather, and you're best to sow in mid to late summer.

Well, I've read that nobody is really sure if it is the cool weather when they are young, or the increasing day length, but spring and early summer sowings are more likely to bolt than later sowings.

**Two_Sheds** · 26-07-2012, 06:10 PM

Well, I count Sept as late summer

It's always nicer than August & July put together, over here.

Seed of Oriental Leaf Greens for Raw and Salad Use

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