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  • used greenhouse

    So I picked up a used greenhouse via free cycle yesterday it's a pretty standard 8x6 with one opening roof vent.
    I about to order new glass clips and hangers and some replacement glass ready for putting it up.

    I am planning to build a small dwarf wall 3 or 4 courses high to raise the height as I am 6.4 tall and would like the extra headroom. I was wondering if this is OK or should be avoided.

    It's pretty mucky so was just going to wash it all with warm soapy water then scrub it with a solution of ***** to kill any nastys before putting it all back together. Is this the best option or should I use something else.

    Lastly I can't decide wetter to put a slab floor in or just a path.

    Any advice/tips appreciated

    Cheers

  • #2
    I raised mine with 9" timbers to give me more headroom and I'm only 5ft 8" as long as you fix the frame to whatever you build so the wind can not move it or rotate it you should be fine.
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    • #3
      Worn here's a link to my vine blog with photos how we built my GH base. I've since removed some of the stone slabs and just left a central path so i can grow in the borders.

      The Grapevine - Bren In Pots - Blogs
      Location....East Midlands.

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      • #4
        Breeze Blocks would be easier to lay than bricks.
        sigpic“Gorillas are very intelligent, but they don't have to be as delicate as chimps -- they can just smash open the termite nest,”
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        • #5
          Cheers all I will look and see might go with the timber option if I can find some cheap enough. Would breeze blocks be OK do they not draw water.
          Also should I use some kind of disinfectant or bleach to clean the frame prior to assembly

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          • #6
            There are different types of concrete blocks, some are lighter, aerated soft and easy to cut some are meant for internal use and some for external leaf use, but all will absorb water it's a matter of degree.

            See if you can pick up some secondhand scaffold boards, that's what I'm about to use on my second greenhouse.

            The attached photo is my first greenhouse on it's frame on Plot 1A, I painted the timber and it stands on the ground on top of weed membrane. the timber still had joist hangers on the end so I turned them upside down and pinned them into the ground for anchorage.

            I used timbers on flat for the Space Saver in the back garden to increase the height to width ratio and hopefully make it a little more wind resistant, I was not worried about it blowing and turning into the fence but was more worried about it falling forward. So a concrete edgings are stacked along the back on top of the timber to prevent sliding and overturning by the wind
            Attached Files
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            • #7
              I had an 8 x 6 years ago and rather than raise the house off the ground I dug a trench inside and used the timber boards to edge the sides. This gave me the height(I'm 6 foot 4 tall) and also meant I didn't have to make the house less stable. The soil I dug out went inside the house to raise the beds slightly.
              ***** Fluid is the best stuff to sterilise your house, I used to do the soil as well.

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              • #8
                I just moved an 8 x 6. I have a metal base on top of timber. I scrubbed each pane of glass, went over each side of each one with a window scraper, the type with a stanley knife blade in it and the rinsed off the soap/debris. No need for anything else although J*e*y*e*s is a belt and braces solution.


                If your worried about breeze blocks taking up water, put in a damp proof course.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Aberdeenplotter View Post
                  If your worried about breeze blocks taking up water, put in a damp proof course.
                  That stops the capillary action from the ground but the rain off the sides and the back will saturate the blocks from the top. They could always be treated with a waterproofing product that does what it says on the tin I guess ( let's see just how good that marketing slogan is )
                  Last edited by Cadalot; 01-01-2017, 09:19 AM.
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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Cadalot View Post
                    That stops the capillary action from the ground but the rain off the sides and the back will saturate the blocks from the top. They could always be treated with a waterproofing product that does what it says on the tin I guess ( let's see just how good that marketing slogan is )
                    You are right of course Cad. . I should maybe have added that I wouldn't be bothered about it. Greenhouses get to be too dry.

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                    • #11
                      Concrete Blocks are fine they are used for footings on buildings.

                      100mm 7n Solid Dense Concrete Breeze Block

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                      • #12
                        Hi - really pleased to find this thread. I too have a greenhouse from Freecycle - waiting to be put up on the lottie and I have been thinking about raising it up for a bit more head room. My question is - there are strips of black rubber hanging off the bits of frame which I think must buffer the glass. Are these essential or could I replace them with clear mastic - which is how the glass is secured on my back garden greenhouse.

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                        • #13
                          There is meant to be a bit of give to allow for expansion and contraction etc - I would give mastic a go especially as others seem to use it with success

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