Grow Your Own Magazine

Need some advice on this as I've made myself very confused after having read too much on the subject.

I have a greenhouse, unheated. I am intending to grow tomatoes, aubergine, chilli in there but also carrots, peas, beans, leeks, beetroot, courgette etc in the garden. I understand that some seeds need a minimum temperature to germinate hence the use of a propagator. However, what happens after germination, can the seedlings then be grown on in the unheated greenhouse or do they still require heat? I am planning to start growing in earnest at the beginning of April so I presume the temperatures would not have risen any great deal by then. I am thinking about heating the greenhouse as paraffin heaters appear to be very reasonable so I presume I could germinate all seeds in the greenhouse but how would the heat affect the growing seedlings once germinated?

Also, I have only a tiny windowsill so I am unable to keep seedlings on that and I can't see how I can get all the seeds I want to grow germinated by using a propagator (I am thinking of the propagator advertised in GYO - 7 compartments).

Finally, I understand the plants will need hardening off before being transplanted (is this correct or is it just for plants that will remain in pots like outdoor tomatoes?). The articles I have read on this say to bring the plants out during the afternoons for the first week and then for the whole day on the second week. I work during the day so I wouldn't be able to follow this. Are they able to be brought out for the whole day in the first week?

Yours much confused
Amanda

I can't help you Amanda, only to say that I'm in the same boat as you and very confused also. Any help on this subject will be much apprecieated.

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Okay, if you're starting in April and under glass you can forget a propagator for all the above, just get your staging and fleece out. Start the tomatoes, aubergines, chillies, peas, beans, beetroots, courgettes and leeks out in cells or small pots. Water and cover with fleece - you can use a paraffin heater but hopefully by then you won't need one and the fleece is a cheaper way to warm up the soil.

Carrots, peas and beans can have a direct sowing into the bed in late April/May depending on weather.

Heaters shouldn't effect your seedlings unless you have too close, however, too warm and the greenhouse becomes a hotbed for fungul diseases.

Any plant that leaves your greenhouse will need hardening off from 7-14 days (courgettes the latter). You can do this in two ways, you can cart them in and out, bringing them in later each night (this is done in April) or you can put them in a coldframe and then just close the lid at night or fit an auto vent and it will do the job for you. If you leave them out, then frost could get them and the tiniest of temperature drops will leave you with weak plants that will never truly recover. Hope this helps. Anything remaining in the greenhouse won't need hardening off, this means that your toms and chillies are okay, if they're remaining inside. Hope this helps.

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Best wishes
Andrewo
Harbinger of Rhubarb tales

Amanda,
If it is any use, I can highly recommend the propagator advertised in GYO. Successfully germinated my toms. Once the little rascals poked their heads through I took off the cover and turned off the propagator. Now proud owner of dozens of healthy looking tom seedlings.
Best of luck.
Hils

so when the little tomatoe shoots get about to 2", then what? As with all seedlings, how do you know what and when to do next.

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Wizer,
When the little darlings reach about 2 inches you can usually see a few true tom leaves; pot them on into 3 inch pots in a general purpose potting compost. I keep mine indoors in an unheated room and make sure that they have loads of light.
I have gleaned vital inside knowledge from generous vine members; blow on the plants, it toughens em up and also provides a tad more carbon dioxide for the little darlings.
If you think this sounds daft trust me it works. Just make sure that there are no witnessess around while you are performing this daily ritual.

Hils

Thanks hils, I have read about Thigmorphgenesis.

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Thanks for all advice, feel a little more confident. Roll on April

It is most important that when you pot on your seedlings that you only pick them up by a leaf. Do not hold their stems or else you will kill them.

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Amanda I have always found that it is best to germinate courgette, marrow, squash and cucumber seeds in a propagator. The other seeds germinate fine in the greenhouse. With tomato, courgette, marrow, squash and cucumber I always sow one seed per 3 inch pot. I personally think it is better for the seedlings. With peas and beans I cannot sow directly in the ground because they disappear probably pinched by mice so I sow these in the greenhouse in cells and then plant them out.

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You don't need to actually blow on them - just talk to them. People laughed when HRH Charlie said he talked to his plants, but he was in effect doing the same thing - so don't be shy , get up close and personal with your seedlings
Rat

Last year I sowed both courgette and cuke seeds straight into 3" pots in unheated greenhouse in April and they germinated okay - cukes caught me by surprise they were so quick off the mark.
However, if you wanna try them now, I think a propagator may be necessary - would deffo be required up here just now - snow has all but vanished today but more is forecast for the weekend
Have just reread this and all I have done is agree with Andrewo and Lesley's previous postings
Rat

If you've got an unheated greenhouse this will help harden them off - leave the door open if it looks like a hot day but try and put a screen up to stop the local cats etc getting in.

And talking to your plants is good for two reasons

1. I gives them extra CO2
2. you get a decent conversation with no interuptions

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ntg

Never be afraid to try something new.
Remember that a lone amateur built the Ark.
A large group of professionals built the Titanic

http://grief-encounters.blogspot.com/

I germinated courgette, squash and cucumber seeds last year, both in the propagator in April and then in 3" pots in the polytunnel in mid May. The mid May sowings were the best, just seemed to tramp on, but the ones sown in the propagator went a bit leggy and then suffered a bit when I got them down to the polytunnel.

I did most of my sowings in two ways last year, so I could compare and the results were quite surprising. Would recommend it to anyone.

Lesley - when you pick up the seedlings for replanting should you hold them by the first two leaves and not the true leaves? or does it not matter?

Jennie if I transplant seedlings I do it when they only have the first two leaves and gently hold the seedling by one of the leaves. I was taught to do it this way when I was young so it's the way I always use.

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I used a propegator for the first time this year, largely to set off my giant onions in Jan and then tomatoes and chilli in feb. It's said you can start toms and chilli off later and they all catch up but I lack the space to do it all at once so needs must. The onion's need to start very early so ensure a long growing period and are not as effected by the low light levels as other things. This month I sowed a few different flower species and golden berry (cape gooseberry) and I am using the propegator again. For my april sowing I will sow stright into the greenhouse and use fleech and heater for cold snaps. Living the in the north of the UK I will keep more picky species chilli and lemon grass etc) on the windowsill.

I tend to sow into peat modules and then prick and throw out the weaker species. The peat pot is then potted on, I avoid disturbing the roots too much this way. However due to space limitions I can afford to really whittle things down, some folks prefer to use as many of the seeds as they can.

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