Tomato Trouble

**Pumpkin Becki** · 30-06-2009, 02:14 PM

I'm thinking you/they may have been over-watering, especially if the bottom leaves are yellowing. It the soil really wet? Tomatoes only need religious watering when they are fruiting.

**Reks** · 30-06-2009, 02:23 PM

It was dryish...like well drained compost when I recieved the pot last Friday. I water it every evening as it really hot now. U reckon that is too much?

**Pumpkin Becki** · 30-06-2009, 03:10 PM

Well over watering and under watering are the main causes for droopy yellowing leaves, so if its not over then it could be underwatering. There doesn't seem to be signs of pest attack, so hopefully a more consistent watering regime along with that seaweed feed should perk it up and reverse the yellowing.

I would also try tying the upper stems to the cane, if they are heavy and droopying/bending over, the cells in the stem get crushed and water and nutrients can't make it up to the top of the plant properly.

**Mac** · 30-06-2009, 03:14 PM

Sorry to butt in - but how often would you advise watering and feeding? I've got some toms which have quite a few flowers on and a few starting to fruit, but just don't know how often to water them. They are in a greenhouse (still chilly and v.windy up here at nights). ?

**Reks** · 30-06-2009, 03:20 PM

Originally posted by Pumpkin Becki View Post

Well over watering and under watering are the main causes for droopy yellowing leaves, so if its not over then it could be underwatering. There doesn't seem to be signs of pest attack, so hopefully a more consistent watering regime along with that seaweed feed should perk it up and reverse the yellowing.

I would also try tying the upper stems to the cane, if they are heavy and droopying/bending over, the cells in the stem get crushed and water and nutrients can't make it up to the top of the plant properly.

Thanks Pumkin_Becki, I will check the compost before watering and have a regular pattern. My neighbour did say he did not give it any TLC, so maybe watering could be the issue. Will use some canes for the stem too.

**Pumpkin Becki** · 30-06-2009, 03:30 PM

Excellent Reks - I'm sure it will pull though.

Mac - with tomatoes its about consistency. If your plants look healthy on what your giving them, then don't change your pattern. If the leaf tip start to droop then they are probably suffering from the heat and could do with a bit more. Avoid watering the leaves themselves, if blight is about it will make it worse.

When the fruit is ripening, give sufficient water, but don't overwater as this can lead to tasteless fruit. If the fruit starts splitting, it means you've underwatered and then overwatered to compensate and the fruit swells too quickly for the skin.

It really all depends on the weather and the conditions you are growing in, and I haven't got a greenhouse myself, so have no experience with that I'm afraid.

**teakdesk** · 30-06-2009, 07:20 PM

Mac, only water when the compost is starting to feel dry under the top inch of compost.

The top compost should get almost bone dry. The compost below should be feeling dry before watering.

When you can see tomatoes forming water more but still allow the top of the compost to go dry.

When you have loads of tomatoes formed you can drench the compost.

Do not feed until the first tomatoes have formed and then build up the amount; you can poison the plant with too much feed.

**Mac** · 01-07-2009, 08:40 AM

Thanks guys, steep learning curve this first year!

**Reks** · 06-07-2009, 10:19 AM

All - Thanks so much for your tips on the tomato plant trouble. I am pleased to say that the plants are no longer droopy. They look nice and healthy. One of them still has some yellowing leaves and if they go too yellow I'll chop them off. I haven't watered the pot since last few days as the compost feels moist. I think its the sea weed and one good watering that has caused the change. I am so pleased

**Michael Johnson** · 08-07-2009, 08:35 AM

Pot bound with the roots is also a sign of drooping plants-especially at the tip of the plant, but over watering can also be the cause.

Be very carefull of letting the surface of the compost go dry-even for as little as an hour, in warm sun or warm weather, especially for plants in pots or containers or grow bags, this is a sure sign that when the fruit form they will almost certainly develop BER-Blossom end rot.

The only tomatoes that do not get it are any form of Cherry tomatoes.

The worst are elongated or roma type, and some of the huge large tomatoes too, only imeadiate action with a calcium product will save them, the best being Calcium Nitrate, but failing that Dolomite lime in the compost at start will mostly prevent it,

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