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| New Shoots Get a helping hand with advice for novice gardeners... |
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| If its just become full the chances are it will shrink down quite a lot ... such that you could add more. The trick is to get a good heat in the compost heap, this makes it compost more quickly, and the heat will help kill weed seeds and diseases. Getting a good heat needs a combination of "green" and "dry / stalky" materials. Adding a 1-2" layer of soil every so often can help, as will adding fresh, or fairly fresh, manure - chicken is especially "hot". I pee on my heap and that is very effective. You can also buy commercial accelerators, like "Garrota". You could start filling the Dalek, and if the level in your first bin falls significantly just fill it up from the Dalek. Better to have one big, full, heap than two half-full ones (the volume will help keep the activity and temperature up). If you make compost in 6-8 weeks you are a mega-star! More normal is 3-6 months, perhaps somewhat longer over the winter when the weather is cold. Put the new Dalek somewhere where it catches full sun - they are designed to heat up from the sun's rays.
__________________ ------------------------------------------- K's Garden blog last update 3rd August 2008 |
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| lol dont think I'm gonna be getting compost in 6 weeks. Thanks for all the advice Kristen. One more question can the Dalek stand on concrete? The only flat bit of ground i have in the sun. Apart from the middle of the lawn that is ![]() Hubby is concerned about liquid seeping from dalek into the concrete. I didnt think compost bins leaked water?
__________________ Taking it one day at a time and still smiling... |
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| If the bin is full and you need to start using the second one what I would do is transfer the unrotted to the second (which will start it off more quickly, worms etc) and use what is good on the garden. The bins do leak dark liquid which will stain concrete and they do better on soil (microbes come up from the earth, drainage), but they will still rot only more slowly on concrete) Some people take up a few paving slabs where the compost is? A few aerating twigs at the bottom seems to be the best bet no matter where the compost bin is situated |
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| "One more question can the Dalek stand on concrete?" Best to put it on bare soil, as vicky said. But you can also put some soil into the heap to add the Good Bugs. The Dalek has a lid, so shouldn't leak water, but as it rots down there will be some "compost tea" that escapes, which will be messy
__________________ ------------------------------------------- K's Garden blog last update 3rd August 2008 |
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| As the others have said, your Dalek will produce liquid. This is because the stuff you put in (veg etc) is full of water. It has to go somewhere! You'll get brown compost tea coming out the bottom. Apart from not staining your concrete, you need worms and things to get in and help the decomposition process ... so stand it on some soil. If you've only got concrete, then consider something like a tumbler instead (pricey though)
__________________ ~ What do I think of Western civilisation? I think it would be a very good idea ~ Gandhi |
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| The trick with compost heaps and bins is to get a good mix of waste in them. For example, if you have a lot of grass cuttings put in layers of shredded material, kitchen vegetable waste, etc. otherwise you'll end up with a smelly green mush. Stick a fork in periodically and aerate the heap or bin. In the garden we have two home made wooden bins. When the first is full and we have used up the rotted contents of the second, we move everything from no. 1 to no. 2 .... and so on. This works well. On the allotment I have two Daleks and provided they are aerated occasionally they also work OK.
__________________ Gardening is a matter of your enthusiasm holding up until your back gets used to it. |
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