How to fix a shed?

Can you post some photos, KKK?

Modern preservatives do not have the longevity of things like the old Oil based Creosote (even if the name lives on). Any new structure will likely not last 19 years unless coated in something every 2-3 years. The lean can be fixed one of two ways. Nail a diagonal inside when the shed is pushed into the vertical. OR line the inside wall with polythene or breathable membrane if you can get it and then a sheet of plywood, that will close the gaps and make it rigid. Building sites often chuck ply or OSB once it's been used and that would be fine to reuse. To felt the roof you need a step ladder, a pot of pitch like felt adhesive and a roll of felt. Plus some felt nails (short with a big head). Cut the felt with a straight edge and a craft knife (the blade gets gunked up so replace afterwards). Look at whats there already to get an idea of layout. If it's fairly tidy you can lay another layer on top or clear it all off and start again.
For jobs you haven't tackled before you'll find yootoob a great resource of DIY tips.

Hi KKK. What an interesting question! There are a few ways to deal with this.

If you have only recently taken on this allotment you could ask the person that suggested it should be repaired

1) Why did they allow the previous tenant to get it into this state?
2) Ask them to show you the oldest shed and point out what original wood is still there!
3) ask if they will do a "shed" swop!!

I think the "lean" is the worst aspect and I would check to see if the "base" of the shed is still properly supporting it. Next if you can "move" the whole shed to open the door then it would appear that some "supports" in the shed have become loose or have rotted out where they join other parts of the shed.

If the roof is sound (no rot) then new felt and felt adhesive rather than nails would be ok. However, watch out that doing the roof will not end up with excessive "lean" and ultimate "falling over" of the whole shed.

Fixing the "holes" where the wind blows through could be a bit difficult without replacing the whole "slat". A patch could result in a water trap and end up with wood rot. Unfortunately you can't preserve rot, it has a life of its own.

Personally I would read my rental agreement and see if there is anything preventing me from replacing the shed. You might need to contact the owner/council allotments officer for their opinion but I suspect that they wont worry too much about it. Also get written permission if the is any change in size/shape/or type of structure. Also if you do get a new shed I would also ask the suggester/s that you repair it where they would like you to put it as it is such a valuable asset to them.

Good luck with the situation and enjoy your gardening.

Bill

Is the shed sinking into the ground at the front? or is the shed no longer square when you look at the sides?

If it's sinking then could a couple of friends help lever it up, so you can push some bricks/paving under the front edge?
If it is going out of square then big braces screwed into side corners while someone pushes it square, should put it right.
Like these, but fixed to the side walls of the shed with lots of screws along the length.


If the gaps in the side walls are narrow, you could use some silicone sealer, if they're wider then use some wood planks screwed over the gaps, inside is neater outside is often easier though.

Unfortunately it's the allotment officer from the council that has suggested I repair it. If I do end up replacing then I'm considering offering him the old one for the plots without sheds.

I currently only have bad photos taken in low light (ie, look, there's light showing through) so it doesn't show the problems very well. Can take more next week when we're going to empty it and properly assess the damage.

I'm not sure what order the pictures will show in but there's one that shows a bit of the lean, one with the door as wide as it will go (without using brute force), the roof holes, the side holes and a general inside shed shot which shows some of the side holes but also part of the damp on the floor (right hand side) which I feel is too far back to have come from the hole in the roof where the main damp is at the front.

After looking at the photos above, please feel free to tell me it's in pretty good nick and I'm worrying over nothing (as I may well be)

Not much wrong with that shed that a little tlc won't put right - I was expecting it to be much worse than that lol

Well that's reassuring to know, I jsut don't know how to give it the TLC!

Yeah, it is in good nick. You should have looked at Snadgers shed thread (although that is a bit pointless as I forgot the pics have all gone). I do fear what ever the shed is standing on needs attention hence the slope and some of the damp. Have another good look but I honestly don't think you have much to worry about.

In my amateur way, I'd sort out the lean with a car jack! Get a couple of paving slabs to sit a jack on, jack up the low side of the shed and pack some bricks, breeze blocks, or summat solid under the frame,.
Then lower the jack down until the shed rests on the supports.

(VC sits back and waits for the comments)

Yes agree with VC and Norfolkgrey. I think that once you get the base level you should have a decent shed to work on.

As I said before I would use new felt and felt adhesive rather than nails. As someone else has mentioned you may need to put in a couple of wooden struts (inside) to hold the whole thing steady. As far as the slits in the side are concerned they may close when the shed is leveled but if not you could use some caulking on the inside to weather proof it.

Good luck

Bill

The shed is on paving slabs, if they've moved and are what's causing the lean, how would I rectify that?

And thank you everyone for putting my mind at ease that it might not be such a big job to repair it after all. I'm clueless when it comes to DIY and saw it on a lean and leaking and paniced a bit.

Looks in way better nick that either of my sheds, lol!

and mine Bario1

KKK if you can get some wooden wedges knock them under the pavers on the leaning side ,do it in stages a bit at a time you could do with 2 wedges per paver ,put them 3inch from the ends knocking them at the same till you have about an inch gap under the edge pack this gap up with sand and gravel gravel the do the one on the othr end untill you are up to the same hight as the first paver and pack same with sand& gravel if youv'e gone up an inch you will not be far out !if needs more reapete, but before you do lift the inbetween pavers up to same and pack by ramming sand& g under them ,you will know when ok as the Door will shut !It sounds a lot of work but it's not ! get every thing together before you start and it will take you 1.1/2 hours ,you need sand & gravel (not much a small bag of each ) 4 wedges (when you ram the sand under the pavers it will free the wedges)a hamer and a bar or rod to do the ramming ,as been said before wait till the shed lifted before covering holes on side and felting roof all the best Dal ps if you were closer i'd give you a hand .