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  • Bramley pruning?

    I have 2 x 4 year old "Bramley 20" apple trees. One fruited this year and gave me 16 apples of a nice size but the other tree did not fruit at all. One branch was so full of fruit that it has now stayed in the downward angle caused by the weight of the fruit (it's nearly touching the ground). When and how can I prune my trees or do I leave them for another year? When I bought the trees as 2 year old maidens the instructions said do not prune for 2 years. Any advice appreciated thank you
    Just think happy thoughts

  • #2
    Bramley can be a biennial fruit bearer, so possibly not too much concern on that score

    Pruning is probably best to follow supplier instructions, maybe as the branches are low train it as an esplier ?
    He who smiles in the face of adversity,has already decided who to blame

    Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity

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    • #3
      Originally posted by bearded bloke View Post
      Pruning is probably best to follow supplier instructions, maybe as the branches are low train it as an esplier ?
      Arent Bramleys at least partially tip bearing? Assuming they are they won't suit espalier type training.

      Some of us live in the past, always talking about back then. Some of us live in the future, always planning what we are going to do. And, then there are those, who neither look behind or ahead, but just enjoy the moment of right now.

      Which one are you and is it how you want to be?

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Alison View Post
        Arent Bramleys at least partially tip bearing? Assuming they are they won't suit espalier type training.
        Yep, just had a read & they are partial tip bearing Alison So no espalier then

        Pruning guidance here .... Pruning a newly-planted fruit tree
        He who smiles in the face of adversity,has already decided who to blame

        Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity

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        • #5
          As has been said, a partial tip bearer.
          Personally take out dead, dying, diseased, crossing branches, March time.
          If you want to shape them, no more than 10% else you may lose too much blossom.
          As the Bramley is a triploid, I assume you have pollinators in the area.
          Last edited by fishpond; 16-11-2015, 09:27 PM.
          Feed the soil, not the plants.
          (helps if you have cluckies)

          Man v Squirrels, pigeons & Ants
          Bob

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          • #6
            I just learned how to prune apple trees at college. I'm not sure about anything specific to bramleys, but maybe I can be a bit helpful. It's handy to know the difference between a vegetative and fruiting bud. Vegetative buds are smaller, not so hairy and lie flat against the shoot, whereas fruiting buds are big, hairy and stand up from the stem. The difference will be obvious when you have the two in front of you to look at. On branches with no fruiting buds, and that you don't want to be leaders (forming main trunks and branches), cut back to a vegetative bud about a thumb's length from the previous year's growth (which will appear thicker and woodier than this season's growth). If a branch has a fruiting bud, cut back to that. When you cut back to a vegetative bud, this encourages the bud you cut to to become dominant and take over the growth, while the buds behind it will become/produce shoots bearing fruiting growth.

            There are probably videos out there that explain between than I can, but tbh that was a helpful bit of revision for me Best of luck with your trees.
            Last edited by dilettante; 16-11-2015, 09:44 PM.

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            • #7
              To anyone who has no idea what a triploid is, there's a decent expanation here Triploid apple varieties

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              • #8
                Originally posted by fishpond View Post
                As has been said, a partial tip bearer.
                Personally take out dead, dying, diseased, crossing branches, March time.
                If you want to shape them, no more than 10% else you may lose too much blossom.
                As the Bramley is a triploid, I assume you have pollinators in the area.
                Regarding pollinators - close to it is a crab apple - that's it, But I still had 15 apples
                Just think happy thoughts

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                • #9
                  very helpful - thank you.
                  Just think happy thoughts

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                  • #10
                    very well described - many thanks
                    Just think happy thoughts

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                    • #11
                      Hi, I'd have a stab at Espaliering it, I know it's a partial tip bearer but you've just had the proof it's capable of yieldiing. Festooned or horizontal branches will fruit better than vertical and you will encourage the development of the all important fruiting spurs along the arms of the Espalier. Prune in the summer to contain growth. Winter pruning will encourage growth, though I would do the necessary formative pruning immediately. Loads of tips on you tube.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by lookbettertomorow View Post
                        Hi, I'd have a stab at Espaliering it, I know it's a partial tip bearer but you've just had the proof it's capable of yieldiing. Festooned or horizontal branches will fruit better than vertical and you will encourage the development of the all important fruiting spurs along the arms of the Espalier. Prune in the summer to contain growth. Winter pruning will encourage growth, though I would do the necessary formative pruning immediately. Loads of tips on you tube.
                        The fact it's produced fruit is nothing to do with whether it's tip bearing as at the moment it's not trained and therefore all tips in place. If you espalier or cordon you'll be cutting off the tips and therefore reducing the potential yield.

                        Some of us live in the past, always talking about back then. Some of us live in the future, always planning what we are going to do. And, then there are those, who neither look behind or ahead, but just enjoy the moment of right now.

                        Which one are you and is it how you want to be?

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                        • #13
                          They said one branch was so full it was bending down. They don't just bare fruit at the tips. The tree will hopefully last many years that's why I suggested formative pruning immediately, one year's reduced yield is worth the greater sum. I think so anyway

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by lookbettertomorow View Post
                            They said one branch was so full it was bending down. They don't just bare fruit at the tips. The tree will hopefully last many years that's why I suggested formative pruning immediately, one year's reduced yield is worth the greater sum. I think so anyway
                            Agree that you sometimes need to loose fruiting for a year or two for the greater long term and some pruning is certainly a good idea. It was your suggestion to espalier it that I was disagreeing with. If you're going to train a Bramley then a bush shape is much more successful than a more linear form.

                            Some of us live in the past, always talking about back then. Some of us live in the future, always planning what we are going to do. And, then there are those, who neither look behind or ahead, but just enjoy the moment of right now.

                            Which one are you and is it how you want to be?

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                            • #15
                              Perhaps we will just have to agree to disagree! I believe for someone unsure of where to go it's easier to keep an Espalier in shape over many years than a bush. Folk often prune a bush by giving it similar to a trim at the barbers, snipping all the ends off, the tips! Keeps it shapely but horribly congested, no light, more prone to pests and disease, looks tidy though, like a pom pom , not many apples though. Probably better with a rose

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