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Neglected apple tree advice

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  • Neglected apple tree advice

    Hi I have an apple tree to my plot and look a bit in bad shape. I can't see the main branches the only thing that I know I can see a lot of upright branching are over 3.5 meter tall already. Don't know what kind of apple tree is but over all has just lots of small scabed fruit. I want to know what you suggest to do and considered that was there before I took over the plot I thinks has more right then me to be there. I have some pics but with all the leaf on it you can't see much.

  • #2
    Sorry pressed the wrong button before I upload pics
    Attached Files

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    • #3
      Hi
      Please post pics of the fruit.
      Last edited by fishpond; 24-08-2015, 06:53 AM.
      Feed the soil, not the plants.
      (helps if you have cluckies)

      Man v Squirrels, pigeons & Ants
      Bob

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      • #4
        Clear all the grass and weeds around the bottom of the tree and give it a mulch. Clear all windfalls and debris. Then in winter when it is dormant give it a prune, only prune about a third. It will be several years to get the tree in shape

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        • #5
          Thanks for the advice. The fruit are big as a plum now and a bit distorted because of scab I think. When I go around I will make a pics. As first year what do I prune first?

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          • #6
            First to remove should be dead, diseased (these should be removed regardless of winter) and crossing.
            If it was mine I would look to remove branches this year to improve air flow, next year reduce height, year after improve shape. Not sure if there is a recommended system or strategy

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            • #7
              Well I'm on right track then. I thought first cut what's not alive second suckers and the few branches that are almost touching ground. As you suggest first clean up under the tree

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              • #8
                I think it could be possible to re-shape the tree into something acceptably useful but it will require lots of pruning, in the right way, at the right time, for a few years.

                But if the tree is badly affected by scab most years I wouldn't bother spending too much time on it. Varieties susceptible to disease only become more susceptible as the years go by. Even varieties which are resistant to disease sometimes slowly lose their resistance, especially if they are widely planted.

                More pictures of the tree are needed, preferably without bright white sky silhouetting the tree.
                Also pictures of the fruit, to see how bad the scab is - assuming it's actually scab and not something else.
                .

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                • #9
                  I will see if I can make more pictures tomorrow. I wanted to plant new trees maybe m26 rootstocks to make maybe an espalier at the end of plot to act as a screen for the sheds and composting area and while the new tree get establish in the next 3/4years I could have some apple from this one. If look like a lot of work can go down soon.

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                  • #10
                    Here some more picture in detail of leaves and fruit plus I took pics from the other side from my neighbours plot ( don't think u can see Koch different from the previous one but is free to upload more pics )
                    Attached Files

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                    • #11
                      Well, fruit is scabby and disfigured but not split to the point of rotting. I wonder if the tree might be a Worcester Pearmain.

                      As the tree is very overgrown and difficult to see the wood for the leaves, it would probably be easier to leave pruning until winter time.

                      If it is a Worcester Pearmain the blossom is distinctive. It also bears a large amount of its fruit on the tips of branches, meaning a 'haircut' merely gets rid of all the fruit buds and the tree channels energy into growind instead.

                      My winter pruning aim for that tree would be to remove as much of the top upright growth with as few cuts as possible, by cutting back the uprights to a point where a handful of side shoots grow out, in order to change the tree direction from upwards to outwards.

                      If the tree sends out long upright shoots in a fightback attempt next summer, remove the upright shoots at their point of origin in late July. Only remove upright shoots. You can keep some of the upright shoots if they will be useful in future to fill a gap in the tree.

                      The minimal number of cuts will increase the chance of fruit, especially with a tip bearer.
                      .

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                      • #12
                        Got it. I would love having a orchad of 4/5 apple trees e some pear. I'll wait for winter to prune it as your instructions. For now I will clean at the bottom so at least I can get to the tree easily without weeds under it. Thanks a lot.

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                        • #13
                          Not wanting to contradict anything FB may recommend. I have started playing around with festooning , with great results I may add.

                          http://www.growfruitandveg.co.uk/gra...ml#post1369742
                          sigpic“Gorillas are very intelligent, but they don't have to be as delicate as chimps -- they can just smash open the termite nest,”
                          --------------------------------------------------------------------
                          Official Member Of The Nutters Club - Rwanda Branch.
                          -------------------------------------------------------------------
                          Sent from my ZX Spectrum with no predictive text..........
                          -----------------------------------------------------------
                          KOYS - King Of Yellow Stickers..............

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                          • #14
                            My big, old apple tree

                            Hi guys, just been reading the above thread re Sarico's apple tree - some advice on my old tree, please (see pic). It's bearing lots of rather decent sized fruits, but is far too big now and I want to reduce its overall size. It does, however have lots of 'green stuff' covering the trunk and branches (looks and feels like furry/mold). Some of the thinner branches snap easily. It's really tall and I'll need a tall set of ladders to get up there to prune!
                            I know apple trees don't go on forever, but would like to save it if poss, if not, it'll be fuel for the log burner!
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                            ~~~ Gardening is medicine that does not need
                            a prescription ... And with no limit on dosage.
                            - Author Unknown ~~~

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                            • #15
                              Bigmally - cracking word that - festooning!
                              ~~~ Gardening is medicine that does not need
                              a prescription ... And with no limit on dosage.
                              - Author Unknown ~~~

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