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Apples on M26

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  • Apples on M26

    Hi all, looking for opinions on apple rootstock m26.

    I'll be looking to plant 2 or 3 trees this winter and m26 seems to be the only available option locally, but, the trees i've seen growing on m26 are spindly looking things even after 5 or 6 years.

    Does anyone here grow apples on m26 as a standard tree and found it worthwhile?
    Thanks, Pete.

  • #2
    Always found M26 a good rootstock. They do need a stake.
    I tend to get M26 when the variety is not vigerous and so M26 generally adds to the growth and size.

    Should give a 9 or 10 foot tree which I find about right.

    It also tends to be more tolerant of low temperatures which for you could be an advantage.

    Where in Northumberland are you - curiosity.

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    • #3
      "Apples on M26" I thought you were following a cider apple lorry spilling its load on the motorway. Ignorance is bliss.
      photo album of my garden in my profile http://www.growfruitandveg.co.uk/gra...my+garden.html

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      • #4
        Perhaps there's a problem with your local soil that's causing M26 to grow poorly. Or perhaps the variety grafted doesn't do well in your soil and climate - or maybe it's a weak-growing variety.

        What kind of soil are your local poor-growing M26's contending with (depth, fertility, subsoil type, weeds, grass, feeding, watering, spraying)?

        If I want trees that I can leave to get on with it without any attention, I have to use the very vigorous rootstocks (MM111 and M25) to have any chance of a tree the size that 'Kirk' can get with M26.
        Other people are lucky and have good growing conditions so they can use dwarf or medium-vigour rootstocks.
        But what difference does it make what the rootstock is, as long as it gets the right size tree in the end?

        If you don't like the look of your local M26 trees, judge how much stronger you'd like your trees to be at the same age and choose a proportionately stronger rootstock to get what you want.

        Roughly speaking, when mature at 10-15 years, MM111 and M25 will make a tree twice the height and spread of M26, and the difference will be even more noticeable in poorer soils because the M26 may not grow at all while the MM111 and M25 may not be much affected. M116, M7 and MM106 will be in-between, although they can struggle to establish in light sandy soils unless there is plenty of rainfall (especially MM106).
        .

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        • #5
          Hmm, i wonder if these guys are mistaken about their trees. I would like something about 10 foot tall with a decent spread of canopy. The ones around me are no more than 8 foot tall with a trunk like a walking cane after being in the ground for 5 year.
          FB, the soil hereabouts is very good,being 3 foot of black loam over clay pretty much everything grows well.

          Kirk, i,m in Ashington which is near enough to the coast to keep the temperature up to above average.

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          • #6
            Ashington
            One side of the family are in Ashington. Used to be up Hawthorn Rd.
            Don't know any Pearson's or Bell's do you?

            If you can drag the secret of large leeks out of George Bell then you are beter then I am, and I'm related.

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