tree costs

**starloc** · 26-02-2011, 04:15 PM

ive never had a problem with aldi trees , they dont give details about the rootstock unlike some suppliers, but neither do a lot of mailorder places,

all the ones i have grow fine, some better than trees from suppliers who are suposed to be prefered suppliers

At the price they are i dont think you realy can loose out

**BUFFS** · 26-02-2011, 04:30 PM

Originally posted by starloc View Post

ive never had a problem with aldi trees , they dont give details about the rootstock unlike some suppliers, but neither do a lot of mailorder places,

all the ones i have grow fine, some better than trees from suppliers who are suposed to be prefered suppliers

At the price they are i dont think you realy can loose out

you would pay more for a bag of these fruit at any of the upmarket shops,and we now have 12 fruit trees,20 late raspberries,6 gooseberries,8 blackcurrant, 14 crowns of rhubarb and enough alpine strawbs to keep up a daily supply from july to nov,all on ground that has been fed and looked after since the 1890s =topsoil is now over 3ft deep...bliss...gives best parsnips ive ever tasted,all in front walled victorian garden..all we need now is a halfway decent summer..

**fruitylou** · 26-02-2011, 08:14 PM

They are a bargain, I bought the apple, pear, plum and cherry 'mini orchard' online then saw these aldi trees a few weeks later so picked up a couple more apple trees, apparantly aldi have them every year so next year I am going back for more

**BUFFS** · 01-03-2011, 08:41 PM

Originally posted by fruitylou View Post

They are a bargain, I bought the apple, pear, plum and cherry 'mini orchard' online then saw these aldi trees a few weeks later so picked up a couple more apple trees, apparantly aldi have them every year so next year I am going back for more

i have been lookinjg on the net about pruning (peach) and it seems it can take 3 yrs to train the tree,when i had a good look at the tree,it seems that the first years bit had already been done,still quite sad it will be at least next year before we get any fruit,just have to look forward to it..

**Kristen** · 01-03-2011, 09:11 PM

Originally posted by BUFFS View Post

still quite sad it will be at least next year before we get any fruit,just have to look forward to it..

"Live as if you are going to die tomorrow, Garden as if you are going to live forever"

**FB.** · 01-03-2011, 09:22 PM

With most fruit trees, fruiting is best sacrificed in the early years, so that the tree can lay down a good root system and so that a good branch structure can be formed - which will enhance a sturdy structure, better tree shape, heavier cropping, less need for pruning when mature and generally less problems in the later years.

Train them well when young and it's amazing how much better they will perform when mature, compared to an un-trained tree.

At this time, I have a young Belle de Boskoop MM111 half-standard which is tied-up to several thick canes.
This is to adjust branch angles which will produce a better shaped tree that won't break branches under heavy fruit load.
It will also reduce the risk of future problems with bark and wood rots that commonly get established in narrow branch angles.
Branches have also been partially cut back to suitably-positioned buds which will slightly alter the direction of growth from upwards to slightly outwards.
The cutting back of long/thin branches prevents branches getting too straggly and eventually very drooping or even broken. This will also help to keep the tree neat and compact.

**BUFFS** · 01-03-2011, 10:18 PM

Originally posted by FB. View Post

With most fruit trees, fruiting is best sacrificed in the early years, so that the tree can lay down a good root system and so that a good branch structure can be formed - which will enhance a sturdy structure, better tree shape, heavier cropping, less need for pruning when mature and generally less problems in the later years.

Train them well when young and it's amazing how much better they will perform when mature, compared to an un-trained tree.

At this time, I have a young Belle de Boskoop MM111 half-standard which is tied-up to several thick canes.
This is to adjust branch angles which will produce a better shaped tree that won't break branches under heavy fruit load.
It will also reduce the risk of future problems with bark and wood rots that commonly get established in narrow branch angles.
Branches have also been partially cut back to suitably-positioned buds which will slightly alter the direction of growth from upwards to slightly outwards.
The cutting back of long/thin branches prevents branches getting too straggly and eventually very drooping or even broken. This will also help to keep the tree neat and compact.

thats what i read,i told OH,who was not impressed,but never having had a peach tree before,i thought id do it right and listen to those who know...thanks to all..

**FB.** · 01-03-2011, 11:15 PM

Yes, my OH dislikes me pruning and training because it initially makes the tree look strange (until new growth starts or until the stakes/canes/trellis is removed). My OH especially dislikes it because it delays cropping.
If your soil is very good, early cropping (and July pruning) can be a good way to reduce excess vigour. But it is not normally advisable for young trees on most soils. Young trees on "full size" rootstocks (e.g. MM111, M25, Pyrus, Brompton etc) can usually spare some energy to grow a few fruits.

Recently, I also pinched-out an excessive number of fruit buds on my MM106 and M26 bushes. This is to give a better balance between cropping and growth.
Pinching-out excessive blosom buds in late winter is also a better way to reduce biennial cropping tendencies than hand-thinning the fruits after flowering time.

**BUFFS** · 05-03-2011, 03:21 PM

Originally posted by FB. View Post

Yes, my OH dislikes me pruning and training because it initially makes the tree look strange (until new growth starts or until the stakes/canes/trellis is removed). My OH especially dislikes it because it delays cropping.
If your soil is very good, early cropping (and July pruning) can be a good way to reduce excess vigour. But it is not normally advisable for young trees on most soils. Young trees on "full size" rootstocks (e.g. MM111, M25, Pyrus, Brompton etc) can usually spare some energy to grow a few fruits.

Recently, I also pinched-out an excessive number of fruit buds on my MM106 and M26 bushes. This is to give a better balance between cropping and growth.
Pinching-out excessive blosom buds in late winter is also a better way to reduce biennial cropping tendencies than hand-thinning the fruits after flowering time.

the more i find out,the less i know,i may have been gardening for over 30 yrs but your knowledge teaches that there is still a lot to learn,thanks for all your info,i have put all the important bits down on paper,so i can look again before attempting anything radical,or i will never remember it all..

**FB.** · 05-03-2011, 04:03 PM

Originally posted by BUFFS View Post

the more i find out,the less i know,i may have been gardening for over 30 yrs but your knowledge teaches that there is still a lot to learn,thanks for all your info,i have put all the important bits down on paper,so i can look again before attempting anything radical,or i will never remember it all..

Thanks for the kind words.

I suspect that you have a broader knowledge than I do; I tend to specialise.
When we first began to grow our own and take gardening more seriously, I took on the fruit while OH took on the veg. We both specialised and we also then didn't interfere with each others patch. Too many cooks spoil the broth.

We certainly help each other, but I am OH's slave on the veg plot and OH is my slave on the fruit plot.

When it comes to knowing how to grow the best parsnips....or carrots....or broccoli.... I would probably make a terrible mess of it for the first few years (besides; the OH does that bit!).

Part of the reason why I tend to be confined to the fruity section of this site is that I have a narrow but more deep and specialised knowledge. Fruits, pests, diseases and wildlife are my specialisms.
I'd have nothing useful to add to the veg-growing comments, so I don't much post there.

**BUFFS** · 05-03-2011, 06:42 PM

i only started gardening after getting married,as OH,she watches the soaps,cant stand them,had some time on grandads plot as a little kid,but when i started properly we had a great old style gardener next door,and he always had time for,what to him must have been daft questions,sometimes he would come round and show me how and then watch me and say "youll be fine,any problems,you know where i am",what a real gem of a gentleman...but on general veg/fruit,he taught me well enough..

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