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rasberrys blackberrys and blackcurrents

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  • rasberrys blackberrys and blackcurrents

    ideas in my head not sure whice is best way

    going to make me a 3m by 20m fruit cage

    1m on both sides for paths and 1m square for the fruits.

    now im going to put down bark for the paths but not sure if I should
    1: put bark all over the 3m x 20m area with bushes in the areas 1m squares I want

    2: put bark all over the 3m x 20m area with bushes in the areas 1m square with a wooden border (thinking of the plant trying to escape and keep it under control)

    3ut bark all over the 3m x 20m area with bushes in the areas 1m square with a wooden border (thinking of the plant trying to escape and keep it under control) but no bark in the 1m square where there will be the bushes.

    im new to planting so any help will be great

    also will be planting in cages loganberry's, tayberrys, redcurrant's, 3 types of raspberry's, 2 types of blackberry's and blueberry's
    Last edited by stormpsy; 30-01-2014, 08:21 AM. Reason: updating plants

  • #2
    Not sure 20M will be enough? Depending on how vigorous a variety of Blackberry you choose they might need 12' each - so that would be up to 7M

    For Raspberries I suggest you plant enough "canes" for a meal. Just a few plants will give you some fruit to decorate a dessert, but not enough (at any one picking) for bowl full each for several people. If its just you then fewer plants would be fine. I would think 10 plants would give you plenty, and maybe 5 plants is the minimum? (Be interested to hear what others say). I have several varieties (and 10 plants of each) which are ready for picking at different times, so that extends the harvest for me. They would be planted about 18" apart, so assuming 5 plants each of 3 varieties that would be nearly 7 metres.

    Before planting Blueberry in the soil check that you have acid soil. Do you, or your neighbours, have Rhododendrons or Azaleas in the garden, or nearby? If not then your soil is probably not acid enough (you could grow Blueberry in a pot, using "Ericaceous" compost)
    K's Garden blog the story of the creation of our garden

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    • #3
      The fruits you list grow in different ways. Currants and gooseberries are generally grown as free standing bushes. The berries grow on long canes which need support. I use wires stretched between upright posts to tie my cane fruits into. Therefore planning for the berries in square metres doesn't really work.
      In my fruit cage I have the cane fruits around the north and east facing sides, to avoiding shading the rest of the cage. Then in the middle I have currants, gooseberries and strawberries. After planting I used a bark chip mulch around, except around the strawberries. I find it is only raspberries that wander and as they are shallow rooting, it is pretty easy to remove those in the wrong place. Hope that helps.

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      • #4
        right now I have 2 of each. (some I have 3) I have a spring (says early), summer (says mid) and autumn raspberrys.

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        • #5
          wendy how wide is your cage?

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          • #6
            Originally posted by stormpsy View Post
            right now I have 2 of each. (some I have 3) I have a spring (says early), summer (says mid) and autumn raspberrys.
            Do you find they give you enough fruit (at any one picking)? or have you just got them and not had a "harvest" as yet?
            Last edited by Kristen; 30-01-2014, 09:27 AM.
            K's Garden blog the story of the creation of our garden

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            • #7


              don't know there still only 1 year old.

              I do have what looks to be well im not sure how many in this tangled mess (see pics) the previous owners left for me to deal with. in summer there were a few on there but couldn't get to as shed/bathtub/damsin tree were all in my way so I left it. but now as its all died back I can attack it. there are shoots every where
              Attached Files

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              • #8


                this was summer time
                Attached Files

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                • #9
                  Worth cutting back all the Raspberry canes that had fruit on them last year (you should be able to see the remnants of the "core" still on the cane) and that will leave the new, unfruited, canes to crop during this year. That job should be done anytime after fruiting finishes and before the end of winter. (Works the same for Summer or Autumn fruiting types, just cut out the canes that have borne fruit. For Summer fruiting that will leave 50% of the canes, for next year, because they produce new canes one year to frui the following year whereas for Autumn fruiting varieties that will chop out all of them as they send up their new canes in the Spring and fruit the same year)
                  K's Garden blog the story of the creation of our garden

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                  • #10
                    I think my cage is 6mX3m. It's a bit overcrowded when everything is in full leaf but it makes fruit picking more of an adventure!

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