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  • Burying compost?

    Sorry if this topic repeats any earlier ones.... I had a search but couldn't find any. My question comes about from a comment by one of the presenters on that excellent gardening programme “Beechgrove Garden” from BBC Scotland. This week (airs locally on Sunday mornings) Jim McColl presented a section on composting, leaf-mould, manure etc and right at the end of the item said of his home-made compost, “Look at that, absolutely wonderful stuff! But our style of composting does not kill weeds SO THIS HAS TO BE BURIED!” [My emphasis.]

    I’m interested in this suggestion for two reasons which both boil down to the experience that both my own compost and local horse manure (even if several years old) produce masses of weeds and particularly grasses from horses’ hay feed etc. Much of the standard advice around spreading compost seems to increase this problem – for example leaving on the surface over winter to be weathered and drawn down by worms, or using as a mulch in flower borders. I used that technique in the fruit cage last year and produced something approaching a very good lawn but awful fruitcage…. I don’t let either my own home-produced compost or stable manure get anywhere near the asparagus bed because it creates more problems than benefits.

    Unfortunately “burying it`” sounds very labour intensive if you’ve got to take off inches of top soil, spread compost/manure, replace top soil…. I use an alternative easier technique each year with a bean trench and could adopt that for peas. It’s also more easily adopted for any veg grown in containers including potatoes in bags (potatoes tend to ignore and overcome most weeds anyway). Alliums and brassicas are more difficult as they do get overpowered by weeds so perhaps the so-called “honey hole” is the answer there though I don’t know if that’s a technique that works (see below).

    The honey-hole technique (I learn from the Internet) is simply a technique of digging a hole, filling with compost/manure up to a few inches below the natural surface level and then topping with replaced soil. That would work well for trees and shrubs and individual plants such as globe artichokes but would get a bit labour intensive for a bed of, say, cauliflowers (which would hate the loosened soil anyway…) But the theory (note, theory!) is that the weather, insects and roots etc will both disperse and find the “honey” (rich nutrients etc) so you stand a chance of reaping the benefits without all the problems of encouraging weeds…. It works on the basis that roots don't take nourishment from the surface (indeed surface watering generally discouraged...) but from several inches down and those inches are sufficient to discourage weed germination.

    Is this "honey hole" theory going to work? Any other bright ideas or solutions please? The one thing I’m not going to do this winter is spread home-made compost or manure on the surface or mix it in with topsoil..... Leafmould might be ok for that but not anything with weed seeds because it just creates more work and I'm increasingly allergic to it, particularly weeding.... Suggestions very welcome. Thanks. bb.
    .

  • #2
    I must admit I raised an eyebrow when Jim made that comment. Like you I don't know how you would bury it, also as bits of it came to the surface through cultivation surely the seeds would germinate anyway.

    Personally I would mulch with it and chop off the "green manure" as it emerges, while resolving not to put any more seeding weeds on the compost heap.
    My gardening blog: In Spades, last update 30th April 2018.
    Chrysanthemum notes page here.

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    • #3
      I would never use horse manure for that reason - too many grasses grow. Horses are very poor utilisers of what they eat, and a lot of seeds pass through totally untouched. Cows, on the other hand, being ruminants, digest their food much more thoroughly and you are unlikely to get undigested weed/grass seeds in farmyard manure.

      Unless you are hot composting don't add any weeds that are about to produce seeds or have seeds on them. Some weed seeds survive in the compost and the soil just about forever, and as soon as they reach daylight again, they grow.

      Put your weed seedheads in a barrel of water, and let the water rot the seeds for a couple of weeks or so, or leave them in and just water your plants with the nutrient rich water. Be warned though, it will soon smell as bad as comfrey feed, so a lid is probably essential!
      Location - Leicestershire - Chisit-land
      Endless wonder.

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      • #4
        To bury compost you need to start at one end of the bed/plot and make a trench, a spade's depth would do it. The soil you take out can go in a wheelbarrow to move it to the other end. Put compost in the trench then dig the next section turning the soil into the trench. Repeat, taking regular breaks to lean on your spade, drink tea and chat to fellow plot holders. At the end of the bed you are left with a trench with compost onto which you can tip the wheelbarrow of soil you took out at the start. Step back and admire! It's single digging, double digging I think is for masochists
        For an RHS explanation:
        Soil: cultivation / Royal Horticultural Society

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        • #5
          Many thanks for these great suggestions, really useful and I'll use a combination of all of them... Weeds so often get the better of me, I'm determined to win!

          On the allotment it's fat hen if you know that one (Victorian spinach I'm told, if I could sell it I'd be rich). One plant (and thousands pop up from Spring onwards, everywhere) can evidently produce 10,000 viable seeds. Add that to grass from manure and, organic or not, reach for the RoundUp?

          Reading an article about wild flower seeds this afternoon I read that mallow seeds stay viable for upwards of 180 years and can then still germinate if conditions are right. So I'm keen to keep this compost buried! Deep!

          I appreciate the soil I bury it under will also be full of seeds looking to hit the right conditions.....
          .

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          • #6
            I find mulching with compost to be quite ok, the weeds do grow but they are so easy to remove because the compost is loose. Had it been in the soil they are more likely to leave their roots in. I often weed a bed just using my hand like a hoe, stirring the loose compost.
            photo album of my garden in my profile http://www.growfruitandveg.co.uk/gra...my+garden.html

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            • #7
              Originally posted by bazzaboy View Post
              both my own compost and local horse manure (even if several years old) produce masses of weeds

              You shouldn't be putting weed seeds into your compost. You should be cutting down the weeds before they flower.


              I don't use horsemuck, never have. It isn't necessary.


              I have 9 daleks, and I also use the Chop n Drop approach (aka One Straw): chop up old foliage, drop it on the soil as a mulch. Simples. Very few weeds.

              more info & photos in the Fac3b00k link below
              All gardeners know better than other gardeners." -- Chinese Proverb.

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